As a wine writer and wine lover, I attend a variety of events and get to try a number of wines from all over the world as well as some pretty amazing food. For those reviews visit my website : https://michaelpinkuswinereview.com/ ...
Here I am now posting my video review of wines from both Ontario (where I live) and from around the world.
Feel free to leave comments about the wines you find interesting.
When you think of sweet or dessert wine and Canada the mind immediately goes to Icewine, maybe a late harvest, but I doubt many of us said "port-style wines". But they are being made and some with tender loving care, like this one. Today it's the Noble Ridge 2017 The Crown
According to my rough count, this is video 950 and so it is time to celebrate this milestone with a little bubbly. Today, it's the Chateau des Charmes 2017 Sparkling Rose, a sparkling wine with a surprise under the caged-cork.
Start with a bottle of Chateau Montus - the OG of Tannat :
Chateau Montus 2017 Madiran
The Written Part ...
An 80% Tannat with 20% Cabernet Sauvignon – taking up a 35 hectares of the 37 hectare Montus
vineyard. Vine age is about 27 years. Fermentation and maceration
follow what happens at Boucassé (see above). Here 50% of the wine sees
new oak for 12 months. Then 24 months in 80 hectoliter foudre (large
barrels). 36 months of aging the wine rests in bottle 2 years before
release.
The note …Weighty wine with lots
of smoky, gritty tannin grip. Floral with good acidity; the fruit either
lingers or has decided to hide within the oak – each sip holds a
different outcome. It'll take time to emerge, but this oak will always
be there. It's an intense wine where food needs to be involved. (****)
Time to taste Tannat from the Madiran region of France -
known for grippy tannins and big fruit these wines age a long time :
Chateau Boucasse 2017 Grand Vin
Chateau Boucassé 2017 Grand Vin de Madiran
60% Tannat with 20% each Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon ... These grapes take up 45 hectares of the 85-hectare vineyard Boucassé. The soils are "red and yellow clays on limestone" and the vine age ranges from 25 to 100 years. Slow fermentation happens between 8 to 10 days and a long maceration between 30 and 45 days (depending on the vintage) . It spends its first year in barrels, of which 20% to 30% are new, then 24 months in large wood casks. And after the 36 months is over, the wine spends another 2 years in bottle before release.
The note … Stunning nose that lures you into the glass. The fruit is smoky and has notes of blackberry, cassis and floral. Very approachable with a long finish. It's a lovely sipping wine. (**** ½)
For a part of the country known for wines made from the Tannat grape,
how does Madiran do with white wines? Let me tell you
Chateau Boucasse 2017 Les Jardins Philosophiques
... The Written Notes ...
A white blend made from the indigenous Petit Courbu and Petit Manseng from Boucassé’s 85-hectare vineyard. The vines are 45 years of age and these grapes take up nine hectares of the vineyard, at no more than 110 m above sea level. It is fermented in stainless steel and then aged in same for 12 months, but on fine lees.
The note … Grapefruit peel and pith that plays off of an oxidized sensation on the tongue. Great acidity back stops the wine giving it an exceptional length on the finish. A beauty of a sipper.
Riserva wines have a reputation of being over-oaked
and needing a long time to come around to be drinkable;
time to change your mind
Tenuta di Saragano 2017 Montefalco Rosso Riserva
- WRITE UP -
There's some real complexity here that is not all wood derived - the spice and fruit play nicely on the long finish and there is age-ability of 5-10 years.
This wine might be sold out, but it does deserve to be looked at,
especially because it was in such limited release;
and quite possibly the best wine to come out of this winery in a long time :
Hinterbrook 2017 Cabernet Franc (Limited Release)
This isn't the usual blank label, on-descript wine from Hinterbrook - this one has Cabernet Franc scrawled across the front, in what looks like the handwriting of someone using a fountain pen and being chased by a bear. This is from their reserve series, but it does not proclaim it's reserve status anywhere on the bottle – it’s just the price that that tells us the winery believes this is something special. 100% French oak, 75% new, bottled unfiltered and resting in oak for a whopping 34 months. There's lots of hidden dark fruit that weaves its way between tobacco, cigar box, cinnamon and there’s even a lovely layer of spiced raspberry on the finish. Not much of this wine was made: 966 bottles, and each is numbered; get it while it's around. (****+)
Something new from Banfi, another single vineyard Brunello,
let the debate about Reserve vs Cru begin
Castello Banfi
2017 Brunello di Montalcino, Vigna Marrucheto
WRITTEN REVIEW
If at first you succeed, try and replicate what you did - not exactly the old saying, but this “new version” is exactly what should and did happen with Vigna Marucheto ... But this time with even better results. The nose is identical to the 2016 offering with its cherry, kirsch, dried cherry notes, but the palate is richer and fruitier, and the acidity hides behind some pretty robust tannins. This is a delightful version of a single vineyard wine and shows why they decided to make wine from this specific plot. (****+)
Another Barolo that rocked my world and this will do the same for yours
Gianni Gagliardo 2017 Barolo, Mosconi
>>> Written Review <<<
A mere 1100 bottles output from this southern exposed, warmer area ... This is a fruit forward number and while the nose leans on the dark side of the fruit spectrum along with mint and balsamic aromas; the palate shows off that dark fruit with a lovely freshness to it, and while there is a pleasant herbal character, it is suppressed by that dark fruit explosion. (****+)
Iconic wines need little to no introduction, but tasting them is a totally different stor
Banfi 2017 Brunello di Montalcino, Poggio alle Mura
>>> WRITTEN REVIEW <<<
The dark fruit is the first thing to show up (and stick around), it's rich and concentrated with a cherry, kirsch and smoky note on the finish. Meanwhile the acidity is a late arrival to the party (third / fourth sip), but once it shows it really makes its presence felt. (****)
This is not a single vineyard Barolo, nor a special selection Barolo, but it is a damn good Barolo
Gianni Gagliardo 2017 Barolo
--- THE WRITTEN REVIEW ---
A 30,000 bottle production where all crus contribute to the blend; it's a majority of La Morra, admits Stefano, and it is a wine released “ready to drink, but will age as well.” Lovely red and black fruit notes with strawberry, cherry, floral and menthol aromas ... Palate is all about freshness; but also with dark and red fruit, subtle pepper and other spices - shows more elegance than power and it's incredibly drinkable the moment the cork is popped. The finish has a lovely linger with balsamic and herbs. (****+)
But in the right hands it can be made into some beautiful wines - like this
Leaning Post 2017 Merlot
--- THE WRITTEN REVIEW ---
Combine Ontario's miracle vintage with a grape that miraculously survived certain death at the hands of a popular movie, and you've got yourself something special. This Merlot saw 18 months in a mix of American and French (new) oak barrels with 20% going into neutral barrels. Surprisingly the nose is shy, but the palate more than makes up for it: blackberry, cassis, smoke, spice and even some vanilla notes give the palate a nice warm hug as the black cherry and black raspberry lingering on the finish. A super expressive, super complex wine that shows what Merlot, done well, can be in Ontario. Rating: ****+
Today wine is a Cotes-du-Rhone wine that delivers both on taste and price, ya gotta love CdR wines
Chateau D'Aigueville 2017 Cotes-du-Rhone Villages
--- WRITTEN REVIEW ---
A red blend of Grenach, Syrah and Carignan, plus a few other grapes unlisted. Nose is pretty simple with white pepper and dark berry fruit. Taste is layered with smoky, dark berry, spice, blackberry, cassis, plus nice tannin backbone and a peppery-coffee finish. (****)
Kicking off the 2022 series with a fun video for a wine from Rockway, you'll see what I mean
Rockway 2017 Cabernet Franc, Small Lot
($27.00 - available at the winery and online)
The Written Review ...
A very palate friendly Cabernet Franc endeavour that opens up nicely and delivers from the nose to the palate: aromas of raspberry, cherry, mocha and tobacco with a subtle woodiness ... On the palate there's a plethora of fun including black cherry, tobacco leaf, mocha, and white pepper with a good tannin structure on the finish. It's pretty much a ready to drink wine, but still has the potential for another 3-plus years of cellaring. Price: $27.00 - Rating: ****
Malbec? in Ontario? Yes it can be made, and it can be made well - I give you exhibit A :
Lakeview Cellars 2017 Malbec
($34.75 - available at the winery and online)
The Written Review ...
Hard to see an Ontario Malbec from a vintage that had no hope in hell of ripening that grape ... until September that is – that’s when things started to turn around. Very dark fruited with its blackberry and black cherry core and a mocha linger. It’s a surprising and very delicious wine from a miracle of a vintage. Price: $34.75 - Rating: ****
These Chardonnay grapes come from the vineyard across the road from the winery - in the Paul Bosc vineyard
Chateau des Charmes 2017 Chardonnay, Paul Bosc Vineyard
($28.95 - available at the winery and online)
The Chardonnays from 2017 seem to have something special about them - a certain elegance of fruit core backed by good acidity. Here peach, apple, vanilla and Christmas spices mingle with a creamy mid-palate and good acidity on the finish. The nose is not as expressive as the palate, but it should open more with time once the cork is popped; factor in the nice length to the finish and this is one tasty Chardonnay for any time of year. Price: $28.95 - Rating: ****