Report from ... Exclusive Osoyoos Larose 10 Year Vertical - September 8, 2014

All lined up:  10 Vintages of the Osoyoos Larose vertical

As a wine writer there is no greater thrill than a 10 year vertical from a very reputable producer; double so when it is one from you home country (Canada).

Today, a select number of members of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada partook in an exclusive opportunity to taste 10 years worth of Osoyoos Larose Grand Vin (their top wine).  Seven of the 10 wines were provided by the winery itself (a big thank you there) - the other three wines were filled out by members of the Circle:  Alan McGinty (2002 / 2008) and Konrad Ejbich (2001) ... an even bigger thank you to those members.

It was incredible to taste these wines side-by-each making not of their evolution and how they opened in the glass through the few hours they were tasted.

All lined up and ready to taste

Top wines according to the writers in attendance were the 2001, 2008 and 2005.  

My top 5 were the 2001, 2005, 2008, 2009 and 2010 ... here are some notes on all the wines.

2001
Aroma:  Touch of leather, forest floor and dried fruit leather
Palate:  Woodsy, spicy, cassis, dried plum and a touch of vanilla
After 40 minutes: It opens beautifully with everything smoothing out
with tannins that sit pleasantly on the tongue 

2002
Aroma:  Very bland, hardly seems to be a wine of interest
Palate:  Overly oaky
After 40 minutes: Opens to loads of mocha and black cherry with great acidity
and spice - pure delight with great complexity

2003
Aroma:  Baked black fruit a la cassis and blackberry
Palate:  Anise, blackberry, spiced plum, though it tastes older than the 2001
After 40 minutes: The acidity seems to come out more and over-powers the wine;
in the end it becomes a most unpleasant experience

2004
Aroma:  Spicy, anise, cinnamon, blackberry, cassis and mocha
Palate:  Woodsy, spicy, high acidity, anise, lots of sediment in the glass
After 40 minutes: Chocolate wafts from the glass bringing with it cedar, smoke
and a plethora of spice.

2005
Aroma:  Inviting and alluring - smoky, tobacco, cassis, anise, blackberry, mocha
Palate:  Elegant and inviting - anise, black cherry, blackberry, mocha;
this wine shows well right now with elegance and delicious flavour
After 40 minutes: Continues to excite in a big way; plenty of life in this bottle.

2006
Aroma:  very closed up
Palate:  continues to be closed and hard to get a handle on
After 40 minutes: Maybe some anise, but lots of vegetal - weakest of the line-up

2007
Aroma:  Cinnamon, cassis and spiced blackberry
Palate:  Smooth and silky yet with some tannins grip with everpresent acidity
After 40 minutes: Lots of heft and dry dark fruit.

2008
Aroma:  Loaded with dark fruit
Palate:  Lush and beautiful of fruit and spice; really is a treat
After 40 minutes: Cassis, blackberry and black cherry continue to shine through.

2009
Aroma:  Red and black fruit
Palate:  Shows lots of fruit, spice, pepper and good tannins
After 40 minutes: Charms from start to finish and then some.

2010
Aroma:  Mocha and black cherry
Palate:  Creamed coffee, black cherry, nicely balanced with great acid and tannins
After 40 minutes: This is the current/coming vintage and will age a decade very well.

_______________________________________________________

The writers hard at work during the tasting

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Report from ... Kacaba Syrah Vertical - June 20, 2014

This is part of the "Vertical" series we at the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada are conducting ... today we welcome Michael Kacaba (owner) and John Tummon (winemaker) of Kacaba and taste 14 Syrahs from 12 vintages.

Michael Kacaba, owner, on hand to relate the story of his winery

John Tummon, winemaker since 2005, explains his wine making method for Syrah

The Kacaba Story ...

Michael Kacaba bought the property in 1996:  "these days I could not afford it", buying a section of an aborted development, Vineland ended up taking another parcel of the property.  Michael was fascinated by Syrah after trips to California.  In 1995 and 1996 he was driving around Niagara and saw plenty of vineyards being planted and thought, "why not".  He started wanting to plant only reds: "If we were going to go down we were going to go down big."  

He planted his Syrah (in 1998) which he bought from a California nursery (rootstock 3309 - clone 877), who was leery to sell to a Canadian ... ended up buying 29 crates and shipping them back to Ontario.  18 of the crated made it to Toronto, 11 ended up in Dallas (finally making there way to Ontario).

Winemakers:  Sue-Ann Staff (2000); Jim Warren (2001); Rob Warren (2002-2003); Beth Mischuk (2004); John Tummon (2005 - present).

The Tasting ...

Wine Writers' Circle Members in attendance (clockwise from right):
Tony Aspler, Konrad Ejbich, Dean Tudor, Tim Appelt, Carolyn Evans-Hammond,
Hrayr Berberoglu - listen to John Tummon (standing) and Michael Kacaba

A look from the other side

A quick look over Ejbich's shoulder 8 wines in

The Wines of Note ...
picture missing in action is the 2007 Proprietor's Reserve - one of the best wines of the tasting.

Impressive for its age - structure is still there

Fruit driven, drink now kinda wine - not what you'd expect from 2009 Syrah

Reserve designated a best vintage - and this is from the older block of vines:
plenty of life left in this one

click for full review

Yet to be released at the winery, so this was a sneak peak:
check out full review here

Big thanks to both John Tummon and Michael Kacaba for an interesting and eye-opening tasting.

For more wine reviews and related articles go to www.ontariowinereview.com, while there sign up for Michael's free bi-weekly newsletter.

Report from … Wine Writers' Circle Tasting – Groupe Soleil Growers Champagne – October 29, 2012

When I first heard of “Growers Champagne” I thought the Apple Cider company from BC was branching out.  But then it was explained to me that Growers Champagne is just what it sounds like – Champagne (from the actual region in France) made by the actual growers themselves, instead of the large Champagne houses … these “growers” aren’t looking for consistency in the bottle from year-to-year, they want the difference of each vintage to shine through, as well as the characteristics of their own vineyard to show in the glass.  According to Stephen Cohen, owner of Groupe Soleil – an Ontario wine agent specializing in these Champagnes, there are over 5000 of these growers Champagnes being made and many are organic and biodynamic.  Groupe Soleil usually has 20-30 different kinds at any one time but in very small amounts.

Today we tried 6 of these particular bubblies – four of them are reviewed below:

Andre Clouet NV Rosé ($59.95)

The wine is made from grapes grown on an 8 hectare vineyard and is 100% Pinot Noir.  Hints of raspberry and citrus with a lovely linger, good acidity; quite the yeast-based palate.  Only 3000 cases produced. (****+)

Champagne Bereche et Fils NV Bereche Reserve Brut ($49.95)

This house was started in the mid-1800’s and still has a modest 10 hectares of land.  This bubbly has a beauty of a nose with great almond biscotti aromas; the palate is biscuity and lemony with a short finish, but one that keeps you craving more.  Made from equal parts Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier (35% each) the rest being Pinot Noir.  5000 cases produced. (**** ½)

Andre Clouet NV Clouet Silver Brut – Brut Nature ($49.95)

“Brut Nature” refers to the wine having no sweetened dosage, which means it’s naturally dry; made from 100% Pinot Noir.  The aromas are reminiscent of lemon cookies and fresh bread, while the palate shows off a certain amount of creaminess along with lemon curd and vanilla cream … it all ends with a medium length finish that’s acid-driven.  3500 cases produced. (****+)

Champagne Laherte 2008 Les Clos ($78.00)

Here’s a unique Champagne made from 7 grape varieties (all official for the region): Fromenteau, Arbanne, Pinot Noir, Chardonnay, Pinot Blanc, Pinot Meunier and Petite Meslier; and it all comes from a single hectare vineyard, kind of a field blend Champagne all picked and crushed together.  Interesting to note that 60% of the wine used comes from the 2008 vintage.  Lovely floral, biscuit, almond and mineral make their way through the wine at one point or another on either the nose or the palate … mostly both.  Lovely finish.  (****+)

For more wine reviews and related articles go to www.ontariowinereview.com,

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Report from ... Appellation Wines tasting - October 29, 2012

As a wine writer I get some unique opportunities to try some very unique wines ... today we had a meeting of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada and invited Ken Hayden from Appellation Wines in to speak about his wines and let us taste some 50 wines from his portfolio.  What makes these wines even more interesting is that they are all made from "oddball" grape varieties that you may never have heard about before (all from Italy) ... some wines were excellent, others, you kinda wish they had left the grapes in the ground ... but all were interesting, unique and a fun to taste.  Below are a list of the wines that I fancied along with their grape variety, approximate price, their viticulture growing area and the occasional note ...

Three and a Half Star wines (*** 1/2) ...

Santa Venere 2011 Vescovado ($24.95) - Area: Calabria, Italy - Grape: Guardavalle

Terra di Briganti 2011 Sciascinoso ($21.25) - Area: Sannio, Italy - Grape: Sciascinoso ... hints of black cherry and leather

Cieck 2011 Erbaluce di Caluso ($20.25) - Area: Erbaluce di Caluso, Italy - Grape: Erbaluce ... citrus and peach

Maison Vigneronne Freres Grosjean 2009 Fumin ($27.00) - Area: Vallee d'Aoste, Italy - Grape: Fumin (90%) / Petit Rouge (10%) ... cranberry-cherry cocktail

Conte Collalto 2011 Rosabianco ($23.00) - Area: Colli Trevigiani, Italy - Grape: Manzoni Rosa 1.5

Three and a Half Plus Star wines (*** 1/2+) ...

Fattoria Paradiso 2008 Barbaresco Il Dosso ($32.70) - Area: Forli, Italy - Grape: Barbarossa ... menthol cherry Halls

I Vini di Emilio Bulfon 2011 Cjanorie ($20.95) - Area: Friuli, Italy - Grape: Cjanorie ... funky nose with sweet red fruit flavours

I Vini di Emilio Bulfon 2011 Forgiarin ($20.95) - Area: Venezia, Italy - Grape: Forgiarin ... red berries

Tenuta Campioli 2011 Brianchello del Metauro ($21.25) - Area: Bianchello del Metauro, Italy - Grape: Bianchello del Metauro

Vinchio Vaglio Serra 2011 Rebus ($22.21) - Area: Ruche di Castagnole Monferrato, Italy - Grape: Ruche ... blueberry and strawberry

Cantine Sociale Il Nuraghe 2010 Tiernu ($22.75) - Area: Campidano di Terralba, Italy - Grape: Bovale (85%) ... nice red fruit driven wine

Duca della Corgna 2011 Divina Villa Etichetta Bianca ($22.75) - Area: Trasimeno Gamay, Italy - Grape: Gamay Selezione Umbria ... sweet strawberry and cherry

Duca della Corgna 2009 Divina Villa Etichetta Nera ($26.25) - Area: Trasimeno Gamay, Italy - Grape: Gamay Selezione Umbria ... similar to above, tho shows more bite to the cherry

Conte Collalto 2009 Wildbacher ($22.75) - Area: Colli Trevigiani, Italy - Grape: Wildbacher ... leathery with cherry fruit

Anna Spinato 2010 Raboso Marca Trevigiana ($18.25) - Area: Raboso Piave, Italy - Grape: Raboso ... blueberry, blackberry and raspberry

Four Star wines (****) ...

I Vini di Emilio Bulfon 2011 Piculit Neri ($22.25) - Area: Venezie, Italy - Grape: Piculit Neri ... sweet red raspberry jam

Azienda Guerrieri 2011 Celso ($22.50) - Area: Bianchello del Metauro, Italy - Grape: Bianchello del Metauro ... pineapple and grapefruit

Cantine Briamara 2011 Erbaluce di Caluso Biancamano ($23.00) - Area: Erbaluce di Caluso, Italy - Grape: Erbaluce ... canned pineapple with hints of peach

Terralba 2009 La Vetta Moradella ($23.00) - Area: Commune di Berzano di Tortona, Italy - Grape: Moradella ... red and dark fruit with nice tannins

Vinchio Vaglio Serra 2010 Don Rodrigo Piemonte Albarossa ($23.25) - Area: Monferrato, Italy - Grape: Albarossa ... lovely light cherry and raspberry with good acidity

Agrivite Valdarno 2009 Pugnitello ($37.00) - Area: Toscana, Italy - Grape: Pugnitello ... black cherry, mocha and cedar

La Crotta di Vegneron 2010 Cornalin ($28.50) - Area: Vallee d'Aoste, Italy - Grape: Cornalin ... cherry licorice and fruit leather

Anna Spinato 2008 Malanotte del Piave ($35.00) - Area: Malanotte de Piave, Italy - Grape: Raboso ... nice blackberry, cherry and plum

Four Plus Star wines (****+) ...

Alberto Quacquarini 2006 Petronio ($42.00) - Area: Petronio, Italy - Grape: Vernaccia Nera ... plum, cherry with port-like nuances

Torre Guaceto (Academie Racemi) 2008 "Sum" ($25.10) - Area: Manduria/Puglia, Italy - Grape: Sussumaniello ... chocolate cherry and strawberry

For more wine reviews and related articles go to www.ontariowinereview.com,

while there sign up for Michael's free bi-weekly newsletter.

Report from ... The Writers Riesling Tasting at Vineland ... August 20, 2012

To read the article of this tasting refer to the November 1, 2012 newsletter (#192: In Praise of Older Wines – The Vineland Experience) ... here are the pictures of our day in the vineyard ...

The line up of wines including a 1989, 1995 and 2004

Looking back thru labels of Riesling (part 1)

Looking back thru labels of Riesling (part 2)

Brian Schmidt addresses the assembled masses (Joe Cool aka. Brian is end of table center)

Joe, I mean Brian, talks Riesling

All smiles for the camera

A look across the vineyard to the winery

Here we are smack dab in the midst of St. Urban vineyard

A look out at the vines from the restaurant

It was a beauty of a summer here in Ontario

Riesling friendly lunch starter

Main

Poached peach for dessert

Along with the cheese platter

For more wine reviews and related articles go to www.ontariowinereview.com, while there sign up for Michael's free bi-weekly newsletter.

Report from ... A Tasting of British Columbia Wines - April 30, 2012

Terroir Wine and Spirits came by to visit with the members of the Wine Writers`Circle of Canada for a sampling of the BC wines they are bringing into the province.  These Ontario born and bred boys (Alex Pyne & Jamie Crain) fell in love with "the competition" while visiting the West Coast about 4 years ago - they started their passion project agency in 2008 to promote the wines they fell in love with.  They say they have been called traitors on occasion, for bringing in the wines of BC - but as the LCBO shows us time and time again, there is always room for wines other than Ontario-made here in the province.  The focus of Terroir Wine and Spirits is boutique wineries of the Pacific Rim - mainly BC (they represent 35 wineries) - plus 6 Washington, 3 Oregon, and 1 California.  Most of their wines are available through private order and restaurants, though some have made it onto the shelves of the liquor monopoly of this province (approximately 15-20% of what they bring in are available thru vintages outlets).  Below is a list of some of their wines and some notes and scores about each ... I have to say that that majority of the reds were wonderful, while the whites ... well, let`s just say that Ontario still has a leg up on our West Coast counter-parts in that department.  You'll also notice that the prices once they get into our province isn`t cheap (must the currency exchange that makes them cost more ... yeah, that's it)

Blackwood Lane ...
2008 Vicuna Roja ($47.95) ... red cherry, hint of dark chocolate, red currant and cassis, red licorice, touch of anise; nice plummy finish (****+)

Cassini Maximus

Cassini Cellars ...
2009 Maximus ($47.95) ... lots of fruit, cherry and strawberry, lovely big fruited good tannin balance with decent acidity, bittersweet chocolate, peppery notes that compliment the complexity of the fruit - lots of chalkiness (**** 1/2)
2009 Collector's Series Syrah ($47.95) ... lovely sweet fruit notes, blackberry, touch of milk chocolate, raspberry jam, cherry and anise notes (****)

Aces Wine ...
2009 Seven Deuce ($27.95) ... juicy, plummy, black cherry, cassis, nice peppery notes (****)
2007 Pocket Kings ($39.95) ... black cherry, smoky vanilla, smoked meat spice, hint of white pepper and touch of chocolate (*** 1/2)

Moon Curser Winery (formerly Twisted Tree) ...
2009 Dead of Night ($44.95) ... Tannat-Syrah blend - chocolate nose, chocolate and licorice on the palate, deep dark black cherry and lovely spice and white pepper on the finish; just a lovely smooth and delicious wine (**** 1/2)

Moon Curser Merlot

2009 Merlot ($44.95) ... this is just lovely and chocolatey, dark fruited with juicy deliciousness and a hint of pepper (**** 1/2)
2009 Border Vines ($44.95) ... alcohol is noticeable, but there is an element of chocolate; big spice but still smooth over the palate; a nice silkiness (*** 1/2+)

Mt. Boucherie ...
2010 Pinot Gris ($21.95) ... grapefruit cocktail, with a hint of sweetness on the palate, the 14% alcohol keeps it from being delicate but it is tasty. (*** 1/2+)
2007 Summit Reserve Merlot ($29.95) ... juiciness of fruit and a bit of chalkiness; interesting wine with some depth (*** 1/2+)

Lulu Island Winery ...
2010 Meritage ($24.95) ... dark cherry, which follows nose to mouth, juicy cherry, though it seems to be almost a one note wonder with that fruit (*** 1/2)

Church & State ...
2009 Cabernet Sauvignon ($43.95) ... nice mouth feel, big tannins, acidity is okay, almost too woody, needs some time to see if everything will come into balance (*** 1/2)

Eau Vivre ...
2008 Pinot Noir ($24.95) ... juicy, cranberry, cherry, hints of strawberry with nice acidity (*** 1/2+)
2009 Cabernet Franc ($29.95) ... tobacco spice and black cherry, a little tough almost chewy, nice stony component to the finish (*** 1/2+)

Silkscarf ...
2011 Ensemble Blanc ($32.95) ... Gewurztraminer / Pinto Gris / Riesling - sweet floral notes, Gew is all over this. (***)
2008 Ensemble ($46.95) ... juicy and red cherry, simple yet pleasureable (***+)

Fort Berens ...
2009 Meritage ($49.95) ... silky smooth, cherry liqueur, cassis and kirsch (****)

Meyer - Reimer Pinot Noir

Meyer Family ...
2010 Chardonnay - McLean Creek Road Vineyard ($44.95) ... creamy, buttery, vanilla - very Chardonnay. (***)
2010 Chardonnay - Sonja Gaudet Tribute Series ($44.95) ... nicest of the Chardonnay tasted, some creaminess and supple of fruit and flavour; nice creamed vanilla and with a little limeade and meringue (*** 1/2+)
2010 Chardonnay - Okanagan Valley ($44.95) ... almost spritzy, minerally, apple and lemon notes (*** 1/2)
2010 Pinot Noir - McLean Creek Road Vineyard ($59.95) ... floral, sweet cranberry, cherry, nice acidity (****)
2010 Pinot Noir - Reimer Vineyard ($59.95) ... intense cinnamon and vanilla, spice and cherry, lovely acid balance, good dark fruit with elegance, finesse of fruit and a great finish. (****+)

For more wine reviews and related articles go to www.ontariowinereview.com,

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Report from ... 9 years worth of Baco Noir With HoP - June 20, 2011

"Baco Noir has been berry-berry good to me" - not sure if they say that around the winery at Henry of Pelham but they should - they are the Kings of Baco Noir - and one of three wineries in all of Ontario I feel are doing justice with this grape (the other two are Sandbanks (PEC) and Sanson (LENS)).  At its best it can taste like a real wine - at its worst its not fit to clean the toilet ... harsh words yes, but as someone who has waded his way through many a Baco Noir (way back in 2007 I organized an Ontario-wide Baco Noir Challenge) I can say that with authority.

Today, at the Summerhill LCBO, a dozen wine writers from the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada joined Paul Speck (co-owner) and Ron Geisbrecht (winemaker) of Henry of Pelham to taste through 9 years of Reserve Baco Noir.

By the Numbers ...
Henry of Pelham (HoP) started growing Baco in 1984 and making it into wine in 1988.  The first year the word `Reserve` appeared on the label was in 1995.  Oak treatment is always 100% American oak, of which 60% is new in the Reserve line ... the wine rests in oak for 6-10 months (regular) and up to 18 months for the Reserve.  Finally, Ron admitted to using 8-15% of Merlot in the wines, though sometimes he`ll use Cabernet Franc

The vintages tasted today ranged from 1997 to a 2010 barrel sample, missing were 01, 03, 04, 06 (no Reserve made those years) and 05 (limited made - sold out).  On average HoP makes only 1500 cases of Baco Noir Reserve compared to 12,000 of the regular.

By the Nose and Palate ...
General note: old Baco smells pretty rank, but the palate is surprisingly gentle and welcoming ... the older wines also seemed to fall apart quickly in the glass.

1997 ... an early favourite with a leathery nose and leathery red fruit flavours, but within a half hour it turned rubber hose and nail polish, drink quickly for best enjoyment.

1998 ... smoky yet horrible on my nose, thought about plugging it before sipping, but that would have taken all the fun out of this (?) - palate has some redeeming qualities with hints of black cherry and smoke.

1999 ... the best of the 90`s Bacos.  The nose proved to be pretty harsh but the palate rescued it from being poured down the sink - full in the mouth with new leather and black cherry, still quite drinkable with a pleasant and long sweet fruit finish.  Drink now.

2000 ... "Not half bad, " I wrote in my notes, "still has a stinky nose though" - palate is okay for a little while, half hour in the glass and it turns weedy and unappealing.

2002 ... one of two that really had impressive credentials - we have here a nine year old Baco with red licorice and cherry on the nose and a lovely palate of sweet vanilla cherry, black currant and plum with blueberries.  I could not swear this to be Baco, it tastes too good.  Drinks very well now.

2007 ... another hot vintage (see above) and another excellent example of well made Baco (this time Cabernet Franc was added).  The nose was almost non-existent but the palate was more than just a little inviting: smooth red fruit (cherry) with nice tannin structure to hold it up and good acidity - great fruit core.  Still a few years ahead of it, the question is: will it turn out like the `02?  One can only hope.

2008 ... no redeeming qualities at this time - varnish aromas and flavours - but as we have seen Baco needs time.

2009 & 2010 ... both barrel samples that need time.

It was once said to me that "good Baco (if there is such a thing) needs at least 5 years in bottle to become a drinkable wine".  Judging by the proof of 1999, 2002 and 2007 - there seems to be some truth to that statement.

Big thanks to Paul Speck and Ron Geisbrecht for giving us some insight into this most maligned and misunderstood grape variety.

For more wine reviews and related articles go to www.ontariowinereview.com, while there sign up for Michael's free bi-weekly newsletter.

Report from ... WWCC Virtual Winery Tasting - April 15, 2011

One of the most interesting Wine Writers' of Canada Circle tasting in some time saw us trying wine from 10 different virtual wineries (wineries without property or retail space to call their own) and talking with 9 principals from these new labels:

Peter Graham, Kevin Panagapka, Ilya Senchuk, Steve Byfield, Nicole Speranzini, Jeff Hundertmark, Charles Baker

Thomas Bachelder - Bachelder Wines

Charles Baker - Charles Baker Wines

Steve Byfield - Nyarai Cellars

Peter Graham - Five Suns

Jeff Hundertmark - 100 Marks

Kevin Panagapka - 20-27 Cellars

Nicole Speranzini - Mike Weir Winery

Ilya Senchuk - Leaning Post Winery

Andrew von Teichman - Generations Wine Company

not personally in attendance, but his wine was there - Paul Ross

Each winemaker or winery principal introduced themselves and their project, many based on single varietals (or at least they started out that way).  And all with one goal, to one day open their own bricks and mortar winery ... or almost all.

A Few Lines About Virtually Anything ...

Nicole, Jeff, Thomas, Andrew, Charles

Charles Baker - started in 2005, one of the first of the next generation of virtuals in Ontario; 100% single vineyard Riesling focused; makes only one wine a year.

Andrew von Teichman - partnered with Alan Jackson to make Union wines, LCBO based brand; makes blends from 100% Ontario grapes; whites and red currently on the general list.

Thomas Bachelder - former winemaker of le Clos Jordanne now on his own, playing negocient in 3 regions: Niagara, Oregon, Burgundy ... all Chardonnay based; coming out September 2011; maximum production 3000 cases (100 from each region).

Jeff Hundertmark - winemaker at Marynissen; single vineyard Pinot Noir based label; will add white in 2011; projected release in 2012.

Nicole Speranzini - winery began in 2005 and was established to help the Mike Weir Foundation; wines made at Chateau des Charmes; 20,000 cases from 5 varietals; new home is imminent which will take them out of the virtual realm.

Peter, Kevin, Ilya, Steve, Nicole

Steve Byfield - established in 2008; cellar master at Calamus; Sauvignon Blanc focus, also makes blended white and red as the vintage dictates; close to 1000 cases total production.

Ilya Senchuk - worked at Lenko since 2002, now with Foreign Affair, Pinot Noir based label, buys fruit from Lowry Estate, adding Riesling and Merlot to the line; purchased 11 acre property to grow his own grapes ... planting begins in 2012; wines coming out late summer or early fall 2011.

Kevin Panagapka - established in 2007; focuses on single vineyard wines; started out with Riesling (from Featherstone Vineyard) and Pinot Noir from his own plot of land; names comes from his grower number (2027); looking at making a sparkling in the future; main intent is to find the difference terroir makes if all other variables remain constant.

Peter Graham - assistant at Lailey Vineyard; virtual based out of Cattail Creek; owned by Gina Edwards; currently an '09 Pinot Noir and 2010 Sauvignon Blanc; sources fruit from different vineyards; Peter joined the team at the beginning of 2011 taking over from Marc Bradshaw.

Choice Quotes ...

Facing the Firing Squad: Kevin P., Ilya S., Steve B.

"If you're making 1000 cases or less it's better to be virtual, the only problem is you don't own your wine."  Kevin P.

About the stigma of being a Virtual Winery:
"When you drink a bottle from New Zealand, Australia, California or where ever do you think whether it's a virtual winery or not?  No, it's a bottle of wine and it's what's in that bottle that counts.  Stop limiting yourselves."  Thomas B.

On the ownership of vineyards and ties to the land:
"We walk those vineyards [where they have contracted fruit from] before and after our day jobs so we are tied to those vineyards."  Peter G.
"Worst thing about being a virtual winery is you don't own your own vineyards; best thing about being a virtual winery is you don't own your own vineyards." Thomas B.
"It's a combination of the vineyard, the owner (the person) and the relationship we build with the land and the people."  Charles B.

Why Virtuals and vital to the industry and established wineries:
"Virtuals provide another revenue stream for their home winery, one that they did not have before."  Nicole S.

A Few Lines About a Few Wines ... wines to watch for
(Because many of these wines are barrel samples all marks are preliminary scores, final scores will be based on the finished product)

Leaning Post 2009 Riesling - "Tank Sample" (~$25.00)
Spent 15 months on lees, has a nose of melon and lemon rind; creamy mouthfeel with lemon drop, a hint of vanilla and sweet peach; nice acidity with a lingering finish.  (****)

Five Suns 2009 Pinot Noir - "Tank Sample" (no price given)
Nose of raspberry and red licorice; palate has sour cherry, anise and nice tannins, there is a slight sweetness to the wine. (*** 1/2)

100 Marks 2010 Pinot Noir - "Barrel Sample" (~$35.00 - 40.00)
Currently only 5 months in barrel, deeper colour than expected from a Pinot, big sweet fruit, dark and rich flavours: dark raspberry notes; this is truly one to watch as it is drinking beautifully right now. (****+)

A tasting of the two virtual vintages (2008 & 2009) ...
"It's nice to have a few vintages to compare, that's the benefit to doing this for a few years. " Kevin P.

The following is a vertical tasting between the two Queenston Road Vineyard Pinot Noirs as done by Kevin Panagapka of 2027 Cellars

Nose:
2008 - sour cherry, raspberry, cranberry and a hint of nutmeg
2009 - dark sour cherry fruit but is still a bit closed because of its youth.

Taste:
2008 - sour red cherry, good spice with cinnamon notes, decent tannins with some sweet red berries on the mid-palate ... light and easy drinking. (Sold Out)
2009 - dark sour cherry follows from the nose; the fruit, spice and tannins meld nicely together on the finish with good flavours and good length.  '09 was a Pinot year and it really shows in this bottle.

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Report from ... Wine Writers' Circle Annual Dinner 2011 - January 24, 2011

The mystery continues ... I have long wondered why wine writers bring the bottles they do to a dinner filled with other wine writers.  Tonight was our annual dinner, this year held at Tutti Matti (an Italian restaurant at 364 Adelaide Street West).  Although food was delicious and my dinner included salad (baby spinach with bufala mozerella, pine nuts, dried balsamic figs, sliced prosciutto, grilled seasonal fruit and saba vinaigrette); main (slow roasted beef short ribs, italian beer, oranges, rosemary and garlic with soft polenta and roasted root vegetables) and dessert (tiramisu - maybe the best I have ever had), it is the wine that always intrigues me.  A fellow by the name of Martin and I got into a discussion about that very thing and neither of us could explain to the others satisfaction why bottles of Le Vieux Pin (B.C.) were sitting beside Chateau Pipeau flanked by a Brunello di Montalcino which sat between a '99 Cilento and Hillebrand with some Jankris and Errazurriz Ovalle standing behind them.  Why a bottle of Isole e Olena found its way beside a Perrin & Fils, or how a rare bottle of Kruger Rumpf Pittersberg could be at the same table as a run of the mill Aussie Shiraz like The Lackey Shiraz.  The head stratching will continue, but here are some notes about the wines that found their way into my glass ...

The Best Wines of the Night ...

Le Vieux Pin 2009 Sauvignon Blanc (British Columbia, Canada) ... a lovely tropical-citrus nose was followed on the tongue with plenty of citrus and acidity but little else.  I was not overwhelmed nor was I underwhelmed, all-in-all I would say I was merely whelmed by it.

Kruger Rumpf 2006 Pittersberg GG Riesling Trocken (Nahe, Germney) ... the GG here stands (in German) for "First Growth", real lemony schist on the nose, while the palate showed a great mineral/stony quality with good acid balance and a dryness rarely seen of in German Riesling.

The real surprise of the night was a Cilento 2999 Merlot Reserve (Ontario, Canada) ... a wine made by Ann Sperling in her early days of Ontario winemaking.  Cigar and chocolate with dried cherry and blackberry, still with enough umph to last 3-4 years.

Vinedos Errazuriz Ovalle 2005 Panul Special Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Chile) ... great raspberry fruit on the nose; lovely fruit on the palate, alive and delicious, paired beautifully with the short ribs.

Isole e Olena 2004 Chianti Classico (Tuscany, Italy) ... cheery and cherry, smoothing out with a good mix of acidity to fruit to tannin ratio.  Tasty.

Perrin & Fils 2007 Les Sinards Chateauneuf-du-Pape (Rhone, France) ... a beautiful example of a Rhone blend, lots of fruit, plenty of heft and depth.

Chateau Pipeau 2003 (Bordeaux, France) ... nice balance and depth of flavour, very Bordelais, aging nicely with dried fruit, good acidity and still well structured tannins.

The Lackey 2007 Shiraz (Australia) nothing ventured nothing gained, this is a fruit forward, full bodied Aussie Shiraz with big fruit and white pepper - typical but tasty.

With ups come downs and these wines disappointed, although I started with high expectations for them ...

JanKris 2004 Crossfire (Paso Robles, California, USA) ... a Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Merlot blend that started off well, with a fruit forward nose and a touch of mocha/coffee and licorice on the palate; it started to open up a little with peppery notes, but just as quickly a faint whiff of corkiness came by and ruined the show. Sigh, such potential.

Hillebrand 1999 Glenlake Cabernet Sauvignon (Ontario, Canada) ... this was a JL Groux creation that proved to be a heavy-handed affair.  Smoky notes dominated and so did the massive tannins and barrel notes; there was no fruit to speak of and those barrel notes won't subside to reveal any, too bad.

Le Vieux Pin 2006 Apogee Merlot (British Columbia, Canada) ... a younger wine then the Hillebrand with much the same result.  Big alcohol (15.1%) and wood masks any kind of fruit this wine might have; time will tell if anything will emerge, but right now it looks doubtful.

Pietranera 2004 Brunello di Montalcino (Tuscany, Italy) ... very powerful still, lots of wood, tannin rich with not much fruit, sure it stood open a couple of hours before we sipped on it, but it still did nothing for me.

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Report from ... Annual Bubbly Tasting of the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada - October 8, 2010

Is there a better way to spend a Friday morning than drinking wines with friends?  Only one way I can think of ... drinking sparkling wine with friends.  This particular Friday morning in October I find myself at the Wine Writers' Circle of Canada annual sparkling wine tasting, sipping on some of the bubblies that will be, or currently are, on the shelves in Ontario.  There are some that say "the worst sparkling wine I tasted is better than the best still wine I've tasted" - I'm not one of those, some of these bubblies tasted like chilled bath water, but there were some excellent ones too - not all from France and not all will break the bank.  Being that my favourite number is eight, I'll recommend my top eight selections for the upcoming holiday season.  Please keep in mind, this was just the top eight of the 44 wines tasted, which is just a sampling of the many fizzy wines available on the market (to get your wine into this tasting an agent or producer had to send it in).

We'll kick this list off with my four 4-star selections (very good):
Santa Margherita Prosecco Superiore Brut Valdobbiadene ($17.95) from Italy, a real toasty nose leads to sweet flavours of white fruit on the palate - an easy drinking bubbly that should appeal to many.

Next up is the Astoria Prosecco Extra Dry ($11.25), this one is all fruit: apple and pear aromas that follow onto the palate - carried through the mouth with nice bubbles across the tongue.

Another Prosecco makes this list, namely the Villa Sandi Prosecco Spumante Extra Dry ($14.05), you'll find this one is very fruit driven, but with really good acidity on the finish - very refreshing, or as I like to think of it: tingly and tasty.

Our first French bubble makes the list: Chateau de Montgueret Saumur Brut ($18.95) made with Chenin Blanc, Chardonnay and Cabernet Franc - only one of these grapes is a classic Champagne grape (the Chardonnay) ... this one is light and refreshing, especially on the finish, before that you'll find apple and peach notes with a light sprinkling of lemonade.

Next up, the 3 that received my 4.5-star ranking (excellent):
I really dug into the Mumm Napa Brut Rosé ($29.95), this is a classic blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay that leaves a little colour behind in the wine ... Pretty in Pink if you will.  That pinkyness gives more red berry aromas and flavours: nice strawberry and raspberry smells, good fizzy mousse on top and those raspberry notes really pop on the finish - pretty in the glass, pretty on the palate.

Here's where we start getting into the Champagnes:  Piper Heidsieck Brut ($49.95), a lovely almond biscotti nose, a palate full of baked apple biscuits - good enough to have as dessert ... almost; but starting with this one will put any gathering on the right footing.

Champagne number two is the Louis Roederer Non-Vintage Brut ($67.95) - this one's a little more serious with a lemon, mineral stoniness, crisp acidity, a bite of green apple and some almond biscotti on the lingering finish.

My favourite bubbly this year was a wine that has never seen the shores of Lake Ontario, and yet is one of the oldest sparkling houses in Champagne (est. 1757): Henri Abele Brut Traditionnel ($54.99); a taste that almost seems oxidized but has lovely yeasty toasty notes, buttered biscuits and a lovely bit of sweetness across the tongue.

So I hope I've given you some ideas of what to celebrate with this holiday season - in a wide range of price points and styles - heck, why not experiment with a few to find your flavour.

Interested in Ontario bubbly, check out both holiday issues of Niagara  Grapevine and County Grapevine Magazines for my holiday input on homegrown fizz.  You'll be amazed at how we stack up to the international competition.

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Report from … Wine Writers’ Circle of Canada Bonus Tasting – March 22, 2010

Every month, or two, the Wine Writers’ Circle is suppose to get together for a tasting of wines that have been sent in. This month there were too many wine and not enough time during the early March meeting (which I missed because I was out of town); but I got in on this tail-end tasting, which featured the wines that did not get opened earlier this month; turned out to be about 35 wines, within this tasting there were some surprises, some good values and some excellent wines, one or two are available now while the others will be coming your way fairly soon.

Great Value Wines …
Chile continues its winning ways with two wines in this category, which will be coming to the LCBO’s general list this “summer” (no firm date given) and both are from the same company.  The San Pedro 2008 35 South Sauvignon Blanc ($11.95) has a very fruity nose and good palate, not too much acidity here so it’s gulpable and sippable (whichever strikes you as the way you want to drink it) – this is a good wine to enjoy for all you patio sitters and sippers (***½).  The other wine from this producer is the San Pedro 2008 35 South Cabernet Sauvignon Reserva ($11.95) another bargain for under twelve-bucks.  This one’s a real crowd pleaser, with a minty raspberry nose, lush red berry fruit and mint in the mouth … nice smooth fruity finish makes this one a fun wine for summer sipping, especially around the BBQ (****).  Another really good value wine comes to us from Italy, and is one for folks who like a little more oomph in their wines, but still rely on fruit flavours for the palatal fun.  Farnese 2008 Negroamaro ($8.95 – available now) from the Puglia region, is the kind of wine that should fly off LCBO shelves, a la FuZion.  Dark fruits like black raspberry, smooth tannin structure, full bodied mouth feel – this one is absolutely a super value (****) … I found myself spending an evening with a bottle quite recently, and enjoyed our hour together very much.

Good Wines at a Good Price …
Blackstone 2007 Merlot – Winemaker’s Select ($15.95 - #606327 – Vintages) – creamy blackberry smoothness; very easy drinking, this will satisfy your California Merlot Jones. (***½)
Angus the Bull 2007 Shiraz ($18.95 – General List - #132936) – a big red and black fruit bomb from down under; this is one your friends, family and loved ones will like when they come over to congregate around the grill. (***½)
Cusumano 2008 Nero d’Avola ($9.95 – General List - #143164) – this should be a best buy selection but it might be too rustic for the masses, big black fruit, cocoa, black raspberry and a boat load of tannins; I can see pouring this one with a steak on the side. (***½)

Something for Dessert …
Not a fan of Sherry? Get your head out of the sand, not all Sherries are created equal, and not all are that dry Fino stuff grandma used to drink.  Check out Gonzalez Byass Solera 1847 Oloroso Dulce ($16.95 – Vintages May 29, 2010).  I buy a few bottles of this every year and every year I have to buy a few bottles, it’s just that good.  I serve it as a dessert and people are both surprised and impressed, and did I mention they go ga-ga for it.  The nose is nutty and caramely with a hint of caramelized orange.  The palate is sweet and lovely with great balancing acidity that keeps that sweetness in check (****½).  Try it the next time you have people over for dinner, just pour it, but for God sake don’t tell them what it is – you’ll see a lot of surprised looks on faces and you’ll find you have emptied the bottle at the end of the night as people will most definitely ask for seconds.

Table Wine of the Tasting …
I really enjoyed the Sherry (above), but sweeties find it easy to please, table wine has it a little harder; but the wine I enjoyed most was from right here in Ontario made by Jackson-Triggs, their single vineyard offering:  2007 Delaine Vineyard Cabernet-Merlot – you can read the full review here.

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Report from ... Prince Edward County Tour with the Wine Writers – Day 3 - August 23, 2009

Another early day, this one had a jam-packed morning. I woke at 5:30am and posted my notes from Day 2 … then it was time for breakfast and out the door for a 4-hour, 4-winery tour. It’s just like it sounds, each winery visited had one hour to show us their wares, then boom, back on the road we went. It’s the wine writer’s version of the smash-and-grab.

First up (9:00), Closson Chase. Now to be honest I have always found Closson Chase to be very pricey for my pocketbook – especially for what they were offering, which was a named (and fairly celebrated) winemaker in a new and unproven region. But with a few years of production and experience under their collective belts I think they are finally beginning to hit their stride and the price to quality ratio doesn’t seem so out of whack – we’re really starting to see what the early envisioners of this winery saw all those years ago. It was here that the $40 2007 South Clos Chardonnay mesmerized all who tried it. Bottom line on this one is, if I bought $40 Chardonnays, this would be my chosen poison, so to speak.

In the ten o’clock hour we found our way to Keint-He, a new winery set to open in early September. Keint-He is run by winemaker and self-admitted “soil geek” Geoff Heinricks, who provided us with some pretty interesting facts and quotes about growing grapes in the County. Geoff believes that “high density planting is very important to the region and the best way to express the terroir.” Geoff started making wines in 2003, but has been growing grapes in the area since 1995. Currently, he has three vineyards: Little Creek, Big Lake and Foxtail Swamp, totaling some 27 acres. His best wine was also a Chardonnay, the 2007 Foxtail Vineyard version, for marketing reasons they drop the ‘swamp’ moniker from the label, but the truth of the matter is the vineyard is located off a road called Swamp College Rd. (you can all make the appropriate jokes now).

Eleven o’clock came and we found ourselves in the barrel cellar of Dan Sullivan (Rosehall Run). He poured quite a few wines in a short period of time and managed to speak over the throng. It just seemed that the writers were getting a little rowdy with their banter and commentary back and forth amongst one another; and then to top things off, the representatives from the Wine Council showed up halfway through the tasting, thus causing even more commotion as they made their apologies and said hello to everyone. Dan was pouring some great wines, but decorum seems to have been left on the wrong side of the cellar door. As we left everyone thanked Dan for a wonderful tasting – for his part Dan looked relieved to see us all go and get his barrel cellar back in order and back to a more peaceful state. I don’t usually give a double recommendation from one location in my report from the County, but for what Dan had to endure I’ll tell you the two that really stood out: the consumer friendly, $14.95 Sur Lie Chardonnay 2007 and the big fruited ‘Cold Creek’ Cabernet Franc 2007.

Noon saw us rolling our convoy into Norman Hardie’s place – basically across the road from Rosehall Run. Norman wasn’t ready for our arrival, “first time I’ve ever seen the wine writers on time,” he remarked good-naturedly, as he scurried about organizing packages of technical notes for us. He took us for a look-see of the vineyard, which produced some interesting nuggets of information, such as this one on the living vineyard: “Frogs are a good indication on the health of your vineyard.” It has something to do with their thins skins. And his affirmation of why he chose the County over a more famous Ontario region (a place he sources some of his fruit from): “I’m here because I believe in what’s here.” Norm, often considered to be a Pinot Noir and Chardonnay specialist, showed us something pretty interesting in his 2008 Pinot Gris.

Final stop of the journey was Fieldstone Vineyard, where some of the County’s newest and smallest congregated for a sampling. With the rain pelting down outside 5 wineries showed off their wares inside the barn … so much for the beautiful weather we had been having and the planned outdoor BBQ lunch. I would have to say it was yet another Chardonnay that impressed at this gathering … the Karlo Estates 2008 Chardonnay.

And with that the we were done, out whirlwind, 2 day jaunt through Prince Edward County was over. We visited 9 wineries and tasted wines from 18 – had we had more time than a weekend we could have done the proper rounds. For some it was their first time, for others it was just one of many visits to the County; but whether novice or veteran it’s not a trip one will soon forgot. Thanks to Sadie Darby and David Lawrason for organizing the trip and all the wineries who accommodated and put up with us. (Read Day 3)

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while there sign up for Michael's free bi-weekly newsletter.