Saturday, February 21, 2015

Report from ... Tenute Silvio Nardi Dinner - February 19, 2015

While in Italy, for the Tuscan Taste Anteprima, I was invited to Tenute Silvio Nardi (a Brunello producer) for a dinner put on by owner Emilia Nardi who invited Michelin-star chef Roy Caceres (he came to Rome via Columbia some 25 years ago) to take charge in the kitchen.  Dinner was not a fusion of cuisines but seemed to exist on its own plateau from the Swiss chard taco opener to the blue cheese wrapped in white chocolate morsel that "just appeared" from the kitchen near the end of the meal.  It truly was an evening to remember for both it's exquisite food and the wines that accompanied it.

Kicking things off with this Ferrari 2007 Perle Rosee
so vibrant and fresh - it was a great starter with the appetizers
The array of appetizers went from a meatball on a stick with a bloody mary sauce;
Swiss chard fresh taco with a lime gel; and a fresh baked multi-seed bread with butter
The line-up of wines to go with the dinner, highlighting the 5-star 2010 vintage ...
full notes to follow as the wines are served with dinner
Plus a special taste of how the 1997 Brunello is doing
Some things presented were not on the formal menu, like this bonus opener:
a fresh free-run egg with a cheese sauce (and other accoutrement in the sauce) ...
then a pork crisp was added for some crunch ...
cracking of the delicate egg ...
Just look at the vibrant colour of that yolk.  Outstanding beginning.

Winemaker Emanuele Nardi ...
spoke briefly about the wines, allowing our hostess Emilia Nardi to address her guests
and the wines; Emanuele preferred to let the wines speak for themselves as the 2010
was such a great vintage all he had to do was allow the fruit to express itself.
Our hostess and winery owner ... Emilia Nardi
The Assembled Guests ...
which included politicians, dignitaries, winery principals and other wine media
my place was at the far end of the table, left hand side beside Emanuele 
And now ... onto the wines and dinner:

Wine #1 - 2013 Turan, Sant'Antimo Rosso
a special bottling made only since 2010 and only 6000 annually
Sangiovese, Colorino, Syrah and Petit Verdot went together to create this
fruit forward wine that had hints of white pepper backing it up (****)
Wine #2 - 2010 Brunello di Montalcino (150,000 bottles produced)
blending the Sangiovese from both the South-East and North-West vineyards.
Aromas are floral and red fruit dominated, followed on the palate with delicate
spice and lots of red fruit; soft and elegant. (****)

"Risotto rosso cremoso, blu del Monviso, manzo & pistacchio"
Looks as good as it sounds:  Risotto, cheese, meat and pistachios
Wine #3 - 2010 Vigneto Manachiara, Brunello di Montalcino (~10,000 bottles produced)
the south-east single vineyard offering planted back in the 1960's
Manachiara means "Bright Morning"
lovely fruit, spice and floral with a long cherry finish. (****+)
Wine #4 - 2010 Vigneto Poggio Doria, Brunello di Montalcino (~3500 bottles produced)
this is the north-west vineyard single offering from vines planted in 1998
Poggio Doria means "Golden Top"
grown in volcanic soil which imparts a chalky-mineral quality but also a
deep plum, cherry and lushness of fruit (**** 1/2)
"Manzo Wagyu, cime di rape e cardoncelli"
The chef, Roy Caceres, comes out for a glass of wine and his curtain call;
posing here with Emilia Nardi ... but he isn't done yet
But first a little palate cleanser of cheese and fruit compotes
The aforementioned white chocolate coating blue cheese and a port reduction sauce
Wine #5 - 1997 Brunello di Montalcino
nice mature Brunello with a long finish of dried fruits and delicate oak
Wine #6 - 2009 Vin Santo San'Antimo, Occhio di Pernice
marmalade, nutty-caramel and apricot
"Castagne, cachi e alloro"
Our last little bonus
A big thank you to Emilia Nardi for hosting this very special dinner and also a big congratulations and thank you to Chef Roy Caceres for creating such a memorable dinner.


Wednesday, February 18, 2015

Report from ... Badia A Passignano Older Vintage Tasting and Tour - February 16, 2015

Arrival @ Badia A Passignano
one of the properties of Antinori in Chianti Classico
Looking out over one of the vineyards surrounding the Monastery,
the center of the property - planting is 90% Sangiovese
A miniature recreation of the Monastery
After centuries of being in other people's hands, in 1986 Antinori bought the property,
reverting the Monastery back to the monks and using the surrounding lands for vineyards
The wines made from the property are aged in the cellar of the Monastery
Which are cavernous and perfect for the aging of wine
Badia A Passignano "Vertical": 1997 / 1999 / 2004 / 2005 / 2009
The "Top Expression of Chianti Classico of Antinori"
and represents the best 20-25 hectares

Badia A Passignano wines...
Vineyards were planted in the late 80's and 90's on both sides of the monastery, totaling 55 hectares.  Average production is approximately 100,000 bottles (less in years like 2008 and 2011).  Deep colour with high acidity are typical of the Sangiovese from this area and these vineyards ...

Badia A Passignano 1997
100% Sangiovese - mostly French oak aged
Nose: leathery, earthy and a touch vegetal
Taste:  lacks fruit right out of the bottle though it is smooth and has decent
licorice, cedar and smoky notes; still has good sweet tannins and acidity
With Time:  turns quite oaky

Badia A Passignano 1999
100% Sangiovese - mostly French oak aged
Nose: cedar, herb and vegetal
Taste:  forget the nose this one is made on the palate.  Sweet black fruit with mineral,
full fruited with dried blackberry taking lead - a real intensity of flavour - long
medium-spiced finish with hints of cedar, dried vanilla-cassis lingers ... elegant and inviting
With Time:  still holds up and has lots more to give - this one is a pure delight

Badia A Passignano 2004
100% Sangiovese - Hungarian oak starts to show its influence
Nose: chocolate, coffee, mocha, blackberry and vanilla - very alluring
Taste:  coffee, mocha, smoke, dark chocolate, spice; though there seems to be a definite
heat to the wine and gives one a real cheek flush within a few sips (declared: 13.5%???);
rich, robust, but shows a clunkiness and lacks finesse
With Time:  total turn around, it develops finesse, structure and balance - heat backs off

Badia A Passignano 2005
100% Sangiovese - Hungarian oak (70%) first year it overtakes French
Nose: blackberry, cassis, mineral/saltiness and cedar
Taste:  mineral, quite cedary, high acidity and tannins; it shows a certain elegance
yet there are those wood tannins that seem to get in the way
With Time:  fuzzy tannins with plenty of smoke and cedar

Badia A Passignano 2009
100% Sangiovese - 95% Hungarian oak, only 5% French
First year declared as a Gran Selezione

Nose: lots of lush dark fruit - blueberry, blackberry, black cherry, vanilla,
mocha - intense and truly inviting
Taste:  sweet dark fruit, lush/soft tannins, good balancing acidity, vanilla oak,
really pleasant, full with cassis and blackberry linger
With Time:  pure hedonist drinking experience

Tuesday, February 17, 2015

Report from ... Anteprima Vernaccia di San Gimignano - Feb. 16, 2015

The view out of the tasting room window
(Museo di Arte Moderna e Contemporanea "De Garda")

This can get to be a pretty boring tasting - it is one single grape (Vernaccia, white) ... so below you'll see what I deemed to be the best 4 wines in the sea of "sameness".  36 producers showing off one grape in usually two different versions: unoaked/fresh and oaked/weighty ... there were also the random few who brought along an aged version - and all of them brought along their newest 2014 (some from tank and some freshly bottled - as little as 10 days ago).

Falchini 2013 Vernaccia di San Gimignano "Ab Vinea Doni" (Best Wine of the Day)Translate into "Gifts from the Vineyard"
5% Chardonnay is added - Fermented and aged in oak: 4-6 months

the Chardonnay adds some roundness and completes the wine:
beeswax, floral and honey notes with a nice peach pot finish (*** 1/2+)
Lucil Libanio 2013 Vernaccia di San Gimignano Riserva "Mareterra"
Translate roughly into "Sea and land/earth"
100% Vernaccia aged 3 months new oak

nice creamy texture on the palate with pineapple puree, touch of Mac apple
and a pleasantly long, lingering finish (*** 1/2)
Macinatico 2013 Vernaccia di San Gimignano
fresh and clean with lots of white fruit: apple, pear, peach and floral (*** 1/2)

Teruzzi & Puthnod 2014 Vernaccia di San Gimignano
lovely pineapple and floral (*** 1/2+)

Sunday, February 15, 2015

Report from ... Anteprima di Toscana, Hotel Baglioni - February 15, 2015

View from the top of the Hotel Baglioni, Firenze (Florence)
Erik Banti 2010 Ciabatta - Morellino di Scansano
85% Sangiovese / 10% Alicante (Grenache) / 5% Cialogiolo
nice and fruity with just hint of oak spice (*** 1/2+)
Colle Spinello 2012 Trequarti Riserva - Morellino di Scansano
spicy red fruit with a blackberry backing and a savory-sweet note on the finish (****+)
Marchesi Antinori 2012 Cont'Ugo - Bolgheri
Spicy, dark fruit, coffee, mocha with a creamy finish with nice tannin balance (****)
Ceralti 2012 Sonoro Bolgheri Superiore - Bolgheri
Woodsy, smoky with dark fruit and black cherry; good tannin finish (****)
Capezzana 2013 Barco Reale di Carmignano - Carmignano
Sweet red fruit and lush tannins (*** 1/2+)
Capezzana 2009 Ghiaie della Furba - Carmignano
leather, mocha and cassis (*** 1/2+)
I Giusti & Zanza Vigneti 2012 Dulcamara - Costa Toscana
Cabernet Sauvignon / Merlot / Petit Verdot
spiced-mocha, chocolate, good tannin backbone; robust and full (****+)

Michele Satta 2011 Syrah - Costa Toscana
pleasantly white pepper and raspberry (*** 1/2+)
Tenuta di Gramineta 2010 Rosso "Litiano" - Maremma Toscana
red fruit, mineral and herbs (*** 1/2+)
Dal Cero 2012 Selverello Cortona Syrah - Cortona
juicy blackberry, black cherry, white pepper and mocha (****)
Le Macchiole 2013 Bolgheri Rosso - Bolgheri
red fruited and juicy, simply a lovely sip (****)
La Braccesca 2012 Achelo Cortona Syrah - Cortona
fruit driven with an herbal sweetness (*** 1/2+)