Wednesday, June 12, 2013

Report from ... Vincenzo Abbruzzese (Valdicava) and 8 Wines - May 7, 2013


Vincenzo Abbruzzese is the owner and principal behind Valdicava wines ... he came to town for a tasting of 8 of his wines and to talk about the Montalcino region ...

Interesting Facts about Montalcino ...
- Brunello di Montalcino is made from 100% Sangiovese and can be made into 3 different wines:  Rosso, Brunello and Reserva ... there is a third level, Santantimo, which can be made from any other grapes besides Sangiovese.
- Biondi Santi was the first producer in Tuscany to make a wine of quality (1888)
- in the 1960s and 1970s Italians started drinking wines of quality instead of just quantity
- in 1966 Vincenzo's grandfather and other suppliers of Biondi Santi decided to start producing quality Brunello on their own
- today 60% of the wines of Brunello are made by 7 producers which equals about 9 million bottles
- the vineyard space is now locked and no more vineyards can be planted in Montalcino; the acreage is about 5000 (2000 hectares)
- what makes Montalcino so special is that Tuscany can get very hot between July 20 and August 10, the vines basically shut down; but in Montalcino the vines do not shut down.

7 Brunellos: 3 Regular and 4 Riserva
The Wines That Impressed - Brunello di Montalcino ...

Three Brunellos were poured, of these 2 were very impressive:

2005 Brunello di Montalcino ... subtlety to the nose with anise and herbs, there's also a hint of raspberry in the background, it is followed up with smoky anise, cassis and a touch of cedar - quite the drying affect on the tongue. (****) 
2006 Brunello di Montalcino

2006 Brunello di Montalcino ... as nice as the 2005 was the 2006 blew it out of the wine barrel, the complexity of this wine was amazing and the layers of aromas and flavours seemed to keep on multiplying.  Nose that was smoky and full of dark fruit, mocha, black cherry and sweet black licorice; palate was juicy with plenty of dark fruit: blackberry, cassis, and blueberry skin along with tobacco notes, all balanced with a firm seam of acidity that lead to the long finish.  This one drinks well now but will also cellar for another 10+ years.  (**** 1/2+)

The Wines That Impressed - Modonna del Piano Riserva ...

There were four wines that were poured from this level, 2 were library wines that are no longer available (so if you have them in your cellar listen up) ... two more are available still.  Of these four wines three were stand outs: the 1998 and the 2001 library wines and the 2006 Riserva was just as impressive as the regular Brunello (maybe more so):

The outstanding 1998 Piano
1998 Madonna del Piano Riserva ... there's a lovely sweetness to the palate here showing loads of dried fruit on the nose and a lovely softness of fruit on the palate, but always with great balancing acidity to keep it fresh in the mouth - this was my favourite wine of the day and one I could drink over and over again.  This really showed the age-ability of Riserva Brunello.

2001 Madonna del Piano Riserva ... this one had big fat fruit on the palate with a nose of mocha and blackberry - a real pleasure to drink.

2006 Madonna del Piano Riserva ... my notes says that it is "sexy, sultry and yummy", the wine has a huge amount of fruit but it's balanced with delicate tannins; it's a dark and brooding wine that can be drunk now if you are patient and are willing to put it into a decanter or a wine that can be aged 10-20 years comfortably. (**** 1/2+)

One More Wine for Good Luck ...

2010 Rosso Di Montalcino ($36.99) ... historically this is a second wine and costs about 70% less than Brunello - according to Vincenzo "Rosso introduces you to the house style of wine, if you don't like the style it is best to move on to another house."  Nose of red berries, red licorice, anise and a touch of coffee; flavours follow pretty closely from the nose but take on a much drier flavour than the sweetness of the aromas let on.  Smooth and supple with just a hint of cedar.  This is the easy drinking more "affordable" side of Brunello.




Report from ... Tasting Opus One with CEO David Pearson - April 17, 2013


There is nothing worse than arriving to a tasting late, I totally blame the crappy Toronto traffic I had to wade this on this Wednesday morning but I made it in time to hear a few anecdotes and to try the three wines.

Opus One CEO David Pearson

Fun Facts:
- original working title for the winery was Napa-Medoc
- names that were also considered before they adopted Opus One ... Janus and Gemini
- Constellation bought Mondavi in 2008 but Opus One continues to work as a separate entity from the rest of the company
- Opus One produces between 20,000 to 25,000 cases annually of which 52% is exported
- the label has never changed since inception
- label shows balance of winemaking traditions: while Baron Rothschild's head is higher on the label Robert's signature is first ... the label has always been considered a cross of old world tradition with a new world look
- there are 169 acres on the property and 155 are in production
- originally planted in 1983, and while some vines do exist from that time period the average age of the vines is only 15 years (due to a 1993 replanting)
- in 1993 a second label "Overture" was created - this is a non-vintage wine that is only sold at the winery.
- the make up of the wines are primarily 80-90% Cabernet Sauvignon; 10-15% Merlot and Cabernet Franc; and 2-3% Petit Verdot and Malbec; aged 100% in French oak for about 18 months

2005 - 2007 - 2009
The Wines:

2005 Opus One ... this grapes had the longest hang time of any of the Opus wines (November).  Nose is spicy along with blackberry, chocolate, tobacco and raspberry ... dry yet silky palate with cassis, spice, cocoa and smoke ... it's very drinkable right now - so pop the cork and enjoy.

2007 Opus One ... Pearson called this "the best vintage of this decade" although it was a difficult harvest where they almost had to freeze protect the grapes.  It is also the highest alcohol level ever for an Opus One wine.  The nose has milk chocolate and cherry and it really lures you in - it smells luscius and succulent, though if you dig deep enough you can smell the high alcohol (so don't dig too deep).  The palate has big fruit of both the red and dark varieties balanced by a rather spicy finish ... the key to this one is the sweet fruit and the nice peppery notes.

2009 Opus One ... this was the year of the rains, the most since 1934; this was also the year where Cabernet Franc made up 9% of the wine, which is the most ever used in a vintage of Opus One.  The nose has a lovely chocolate-dark fruit elegance along with hints of cherry and tobacco.  Palate shows red fruit finesse some tobacco, cigar box and cocoa also make an appearance.



Lunch ...

Sadly I did not take any pictures of the lunch - it was too good and I was really hungry after all those delicious wines ... though I did take of picture of the menu if you care to see what the National Club made us for lunch:
The Bison Tenderloin went very well with the wines.


Tuesday, May 14, 2013

Report from ... Hobbs & Co. Agent Tasting - April 25, 2013

The annual Hobbs & Co. tasting was held at Berkeley Church in Toronto.  14 winery principals from a variety of wineries from as close as Ontario to as far away as Australia poured their wines of which there were more than 90 to taste.  I believe I tasted most, but I'm sure some slipped through the cracks.  Here are my top selections:

Plume 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon ($35.00) - California
big vanilla, chocolate and cherry
(****)
Boomtown 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon ($26.00) - Washington
nice easy drinking Cab with good fruit and a touch of spice
(****)

Gauchezco 2008 Oro ($53.00) - Argentina
made from 80+ year old Malbec vines
sexy, smooth with chocolate-spiciness
(****+)
Hartenberg 2007 Shiraz ($28.95) - South Africa
lovely spice with smooth palate of dark fruit
and hints of vanilla with a long spiced finish
(****)

Campbells Rutherglen Muscat NV ($26.00) - Australia
a cross between Christmas spice and creme brulee
(**** 1/2)
Alpha Zeta 2012 Chardonnay ($16.00) - Italy
pineapple and apple skin along with some lime zest
and vanilla backing
(*** 1/2+)
Alpha Zeta 2010 Valpolicella Superiore Ripasso ($24.00) - Italy
cocoa, cherry and blackberry
(****)
Empordalia Verdera Negre 2011 ($13.50) - Spain
nice fruit with cherry and blackberry tones
nice length to the finish and great value
(****)

Domaine de Grand Garant 2011 Fleurie Le Vivier ($23.00) - Beaujolais
pretty floral along with some sour cherry; nice little Gamay here
(*** 1/2+)
Domaine Lafond 2011 Tavel Rose ($24.50) - Tavel
a seven grape blend that has nice fruit on the palate
but ends with a dry, strawberry finish
(*** 1/2+)

Leitz 2012 Dragonstone ($23.00) - Germany
floral with sweet mineral and lovely balance
(*** 1/2+)
Leitz 2012 Kaisersteinfels ($46.00) - Germany
40-80 year old vines with great minerality and
delicious apple as the main fruit
(****)

Coto de Hayas 2011 Garnacha Centenaria ($17.00) - Spain
sexy wine with chocolate and blackberry on the nose
cassis, cherry and cocoa on the palate
drinks exceptionally well now but will also age quite well
(****+)

Wines Not Pictured ...
Quails' Gate 2010 Chardonnay ($20.00) - British Columbia - creamy smooth with good fruit, peach and caramel along with buttery and oak notes. (****)
Chateau Gaudrelle Touraine Brut Rose NV ($26.00) - Loire Valley - tasty little buble with red berries and good acidity. (*** 1/2+)


Monday, May 13, 2013

Report from ... Wines of Portugal: A World of Difference Tasting - April 29, 2013

Time for the annual Portuguese wine tasting ... and once again they show that Port is not all  they've got - below some pictures of the best bottles and, in some cases, best values you're bound to find ...

Quinta ds Apegadas 2009 Apegadas D60
lovely chocolate and spice with good red and black fruit
(****+)
Quinta ds Apegadas 2009 Velha (#314435)
fruit forward and great spice - pleasant palate
(*** 1/2+)

Esporao 2010 Red Reserve (#606590)
full fruit, spice and herbal notes
good ageworthiness - new label every year
(****)
Churchill's Estates 2009 Grande Reserva
red and black fruit with hints of smooth chocolate
(****)

Churchill's 2005 Late Bottled Vintage
stellar
(**** 1/2)
Catedral 2008 Reserve Dao Red (#219816)
dark fruit and licorice notes
(*** 1/2+)
Topazio 2009 Douro Red (#324566)
chocolate, dark berries, rich and succulent
really juicy - should be in LCBO within 60 days
(****+)

Sogevinus 2010 Veedha Douro (#255851)
juicy dark berries and red berries, nice and easy on the palate
still great value ... nice tannin structure
(****)
Dacosta 10 Year Old Port (Tawny)
nice marmalade and dried cherry
(****)

Burmester 2007 Late Bottled Vintage
spicy anddark of fruit - delicious
coming soon to Vintages
(****+)

Taylor Fladgate 2007 Late Bottled Vintage Port (#46946)
sweet cherry, chocolate with good spice on the finish
this is stunningly good for under $20
(**** 1/2)

Quartetto 2010 (#253880)
nice red berries and subtle spice - but the berries stand out
(****)
Wines Not Pictured ...
Ramos Pinto 2010 Duas Quintas (#399893) - generous fruit, good sipper that's light on the palate. (*** 1/2)
Alianca 2011 Terra Boa (#590364) - smooth and easy almost sexy. (*** 1/2)


Report from ... Malbec World Day Tasting at RTH - April 16, 2013

World Malbec Day focuses on the all-star grape of Argentina, Malbec ... at this tasting 28 producers showed off a minimum of one wine, but no more than 3, and not all of them was a Malbec, and that's good because Argentina is making more than just really good Malbec.  Pictured below are my top twelve wines of the tasting (in no particular order) ...

Las Moras 2011 Reserve Chardonnay ($12.95 - #270025)
pleasant buttery notes with peach and spice backing ... (****)

Alamos 2010 Seleccion Pinot Noir ($16.95 - #143172)
soft and juicy raspberry nose and taste ... (*** 1/2+)

Las Moras 2010 Black Label Bonarda ($15.95 - #260901)
cassis, blackberry and black-raspberry ... (****)

La Posta 2011 Cocina Tinto Blend ($12.75 - #269860)
juicy blend of red berries and tasty spices ... (****)

Alamos 2011 Alamos Malbec ($13.95 - #295139)
Spiced cherry and raspberry with hints of strawberry ... (****+)

Graffigna 2010 Grand Reserve Malbec ($17.95 - #162149)
layered with chocolate, raspberry and spice ... (****+)

Dante Robino 2009 Reserve Malbec ($19.95 - #301473)
smooth, silky and dark chocolate oriented with plenty of cassis and spice ... (****+)

Domaine Jean Bousquet 2010 Grande Reserve Malbec ($21.95 - #303701)
chocolate and raspberry through and through ... (****)

Catena 2010 High Mountain Vines Malbec ($19.95 - #478727)
nice black cherry and chocolate with balancing acidty and tannins ... (**** 1/2)

Luca 2010 Laborde Double Select Syrah ($22.95 - #167346)
raspberry, white pepper nose adding a meaty, smokiness to the palate; mixes Syrah with Shiraz ... (****)

Santa Julia 2011 Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon ($13.00 - #242370)
sweet red frit with cherry and raspberry, very juicy ... (****)

Trapiche 2007 Fincas Las Palmas Cabernet Sauvignon ($16.75 - #143206)
complexity within the fruit: chocolate, blueberry -
really excellent value in a 6 year old wine; great tannin balance and length of finish ... (**** 1/2+)
Wine Not Pictured ...
Chakana Estate 2011 Selection Malbec ($19.95 - #219261) - clean, smooth, silky and sexy. (**** 1/2)


Report from ... 30.50 Imports (Agent) Tasting - April 29, 2013

30.50 Imports (3050imports.com) is one of the many agents in Ontario and today in the bowels of Barbarian Restaurant, or more precisely, from the wine cellar of Barbarian Restaurant they had much of their portfolio on for tasting ... here are my favourites of the wines I tasted:

Fattoria Casabianca 2009 Chianti Colli Senesi Riserva - $19.95 (Italy)
great value in a delicious Chianti
(****)

Peter Zemmer 2011 Pinot Bianco - $16.95 (Italy)
think not Alsace, this one is dry and mineral driven
(*** 1/2)
Peter Zemmer 2011 Muller Thurgau - $18.95 (Italy)
nice grapefruit and mineral character
(****)

Mt Rosa Estate 2009 Pinot Gris - $25.95 (New Zealand)
NZ Pinot Grises are coming on strong and this is no exception
white peach and mac apple dominate
(*** 1/2)
Skillogalee 2009 Take Two Shiraz Cabernet - $23.95 (Australia)
this Shiraz-Cab blended is well-balanced and food friendly
cocoa and eucalyptus play a big part along with good acidity on finish
(****+)
Castello di Verduno 2010 Barbera D'Alba - $24.95 (Italy)
great red licorice notes amongst the fruit
(*** 1/2)

Castello di Verduno 2007 Barbaresco 'Faset' - $49.95 (Italy)
plenty of cherry and spice in this one
(****+)
Domaine Michel Mallard & Fils 2009 Ladoix 'Le Clos Royer' - $49.95 (France)
fruit forward Pinot with floral notes; well balanced with a long pleasing finish
(****)
Chateau Barrejat 2010 Seduction - $19.95 (France)
this is a well priced madiran wine that's well named
it seduces the palate with lovely dark fruit; very tasty, great value
(****)

Sivipa 2010 Moscatel de Setubal - $14.95 (Portugal)
simply lovely with gentle fruit bordering on tropical with
candied orange peel notes and great spice and acidity on the finish
(**** 1/2)

Bodegas Tradicion NV Pedro Ximenez, 20 Year Old - $105.00 (Spain)
I'm a sucker for PX Sherry and this one is creamy and sexy
(**** 1/2)
Wine not pictured:
Roots Run Deep Winery 2009 Pinot Noir, Educated Guess - $29.95 (California)
black fruit oriented with sweet licorice and red cherry backing (****)