Wednesday, March 9, 2016

Report from: Benvenuto Brunello in Toronto, March 8, 2016

Having just returned from Tuscany less than a month ago it was nice to see Tuscany’s big boy wine (Brunello) come to our shores to show off their wares. I stayed away from the younger wines, instead wanting to taste the aged versions. Oldest wine present was 2004 – but I tasted nothing past the year 2010 and there’s a Rosso on the way that’ll knock your socks off with in both taste and price (see special mention) … here’s the good stuff I tasted:

Four Stars …
Col D’Orcia 2010 Brunello di Montalcino (DOCG)
Lisini 2009 Brunello di Montalcino – Selezione Ugolaia (DOCG)
Podere Le Ripi 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (DOCG)
Sassodisole 2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (DOCG)

Four-Plus Stars …
Palazzo 2009 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (DOCG)


Best Producer …
Pouring three wines and all were spectacular:  

La Fiorita
2007 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva (DOCG) … **** ½
2009 Brunello di Montalcino (DOCG) … **** ½
2010 Brunello di Montalcino (DOCG) … ****



Special Mention …
The producer, Rendola, whose label is vaguely familiar of a high profile Australian producer (you decide) had the oldest wine in attendance and a really good Rosso that should be at the LCBO in May at under $15.

2004 Brunello di Montalcino (DOCG) … *** ½+
2009 Rosso di Montalcino (DOC) … *** ½+



Ontario Wine Review Video #167: Pillitteri 2010 Riserva Famiglia Caberne...



Monday, March 7, 2016

Report from: Romagna Tasting – February 22, 2016

This is my second time in Romagna for their Anteprima … The region is known for the Albana grape (white) and Sangiovese (red) - and the first thing you quickly realize is this region has an inferiority complex about Tuscany (their more popular neighbour and brother in Sangiovese). The focus of the tasting was their “Riserva” wines – the one’s aged a minimum 24 months in barrel … these wines are young, raw, aggressive, tannic and acidic - but they are also very ageable.  During our dinner with the producers they showcased wines from 2008 and 2009 that were quite brilliant and paired well with the exceptional cuisine of the area.  These wines are meant to be paired with food – not tasted clinically on their own – and need time (lots of time) to balance themselves out … it would behoove the Consorzio to look into tasting the more approachable (and sooner) Superiore (non-Reserve) wines they produce and then also show off some older vintages of Riserva in a showcase (like they did this year with some 2008 wines), but use potentially older wines (10+ years) for us to see how well they can age.

Albana was also on display, a white grape that needs help to be recognized – even if it is the only DOCG of the area … but it deserves the spotlight, even if it’s a little one, as these wines can be quite interesting and approachable.

The table of Sangioveses
So, without further preamble …
The tasting was broken up into whites (Albana) both current and coming releases and Sangiovese Superiore Riserva – these wines are set to go on sale in the Spring of 2017 – some are still in barrel and some are in bottle ageing … I rate finished wines only – the rest fall into the “Potential” category, which, as the name suggests, are wines that show potential for the future once bottled.

(All scoring is out of 5 stars)

Romagna Albana (DOCG) …

Three Stars …
Tre Monti 2014 Romagna Albana DOCG “Vitalba”
Caviro 2014 Romagna Albana DOCG “Romio”
Madonia 2014 Romagna Albana DOCG “Neblina”

Three-and-a-Half Stars …
Fattoria Monticino Rosso 2014 Romagna Albana DOCG “Codronchio”

Three-and-a-Half PLUS Stars …
Fratta Minore 2014 Romagna Albana DOCG
Tenuta Masselina Romagna Albana DOCG
Trere’ 2014 Romagna Albana DOCG “Compradrona”


Potential (tank samples) …
I tasted eight 2015 tank samples (unfinished wine) of Albana these are the ones that I believe have the best potential for the future – I’m hoping for good things once bottled.

Branchini 2015 Romagna Albana DOCG “Dutia”
Giovannini Giorgio E Jacopo 2015 Romagna Albana DOCG
Trere’ 2015 Romagna Albana DOCG “Arlus”
Fiorentini 2015 Romagna Albana DOCG “Cleonice”


Romagna Sangiovese Riserva (DOC) 2013 …
Bucking the solo tasting ... tasting in a group (from right):
Megumi Nishida (Japan);
Jan-Sebastian Van Lissum (Holland);
and Michael Pinkus (Canada)

Three Stars …
Tre Monti 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Oriolo “Thea”

Three-and-a-Half Stars …
Trere’ 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Superiore “Amarcord D’un Ross”

Ca’ Di Sopra 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Marzeno “Cadisopra”

Villa Papiano 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Modigliana “I Probi di Papiano”

Poderi Dal Nespoli 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Superiore “Il Nespoli”

Tenuta La Viola 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC “P. Honorii”
Santini 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Superiore “Cornelianum”

Three-and-a-Half PLUS Stars …
Tre Monti 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva  DOC Oriolo “Petrignone”

Special Mention … (non-DOC wine)
Tenuta Santa Lucia 2013 Rubicone IGT Sangiovese “Moro Bendato”


Potential (tank samples) …
I tasted nineteen 2013 barrel samples (unfinished wine) of Sangiovese Riserva, these are the ones that I believed have the best potential for the future – I’m hoping for good things once bottled.

Fiorentini 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Castrocaro “Vigna Dei Dottori”
Caviro 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Superiore “Terragens”
Conde’ 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Predappio “Conde’ Riserva”
Drei Dona’ 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Superiore “Riserva Palazza”
Drei Dona’ 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Superiore “Pruno”
Bissoni 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Bertinoro
Madonia 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Superiore Bertinoro “Ombroso”
Tenuta Casali 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Superiore “Quatosole”
Tenuta Santa Lucia 2013 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Superiore “Sassignolo”


Romagna Sangiovese Riserva (DOC) 2012 …

Three Stars …
Madonia 2012 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Bertinoro “Ombroso”
Cantina Braschi di Enoica 2012 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Bertinoro “Il Costone”

Three-and-a-Half Stars …
Gallegati 2012 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Brisighella “Corallo Nero”
La Berta 2012 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva “Olmatello”
Fattoria Zerbina 2012 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Superiore “Torre di Ceparano”
Poderi Morini 2012 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Oriolo “Nonno Rico”
Berti Stefano 2012 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Predappio “Calisto”
Drei Dona’ 2012 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva “Podere Palazza”
Tenuta La Viola 2012 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Bertinoro “P. Honorii”
Le Rocche Malatestiana 2012 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC “Il Mastino”

Three-and-a-Half PLUS Stars …
Poderi Dal Nespoli 2012 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Superiore “Il Nespoli”


Potential (tank samples) …
I tasted three 2012 barrel samples (unfinished wine) of Sangiovese Riserva, this was the one with the best potential for the future:

Conde’ 2012 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC Predappio “Conde’ Riserva”


Looking Back: 2008 Sangiovese di Romagna …
Showing that these wines need bottle age to really show what Romagna can do with the Sangiovese grape the Consorzio decided on a 12 wine retrospective tasting of the 2008 vintage – enlightening but I think they should go further, 10 years back might shine an even brighter light on these wines.

Three-and-a-Half Stars …
Balia di Zola 2008 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC “Redinoce”
Poderi Dal Nespoli 2008 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC “Prugneto”

Three-and-a-Half PLUS Stars …
Drei Dona’ 2008 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC “Pruno”

Four Stars …
Costa Archi 2008 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC “Monte Brullo”
San Patrignano 2008 Romagna Sangiovese Riserva DOC “Avi”

______________________________


Looking at the Dinner the Night Before … (held at San Domenico 45, est 1970)



Morbidella di Robiola e Squacquerone
Filetto di Salmone Selvaggio
Uovo in Raviolo "San Domenico"
Favourite wine at my table: La Berta 2009 Sangiovese Riserva
Writers gather round the wine table - a surrealistic where's Waldo moment

The Wine Review - Ep. 43: Chapillon 2011 Siendra



Thursday, March 3, 2016

Report from: Chianti Classico Tasting – February 15-16, 2016

371 wines … 172+ producers … 7 vintages represented (2006 -2014) … 2 days … 1 enormous room for tasting – This is the Chianti Classico tasting 2016 and this is the pinnacle of the week – yes they start with it, but it’s the biggest tasting, the crown jewel, the reason we all gather.

“The 2016 edition of the Chianti Classico Collection marks the beginning of the 300th anniversary celebrations, commemorating 24th September 1716 when Grand Duke Cosimo III dei Medici issued the ordinance ‘On the Declaration of the boundaries of the four regions of Chianti, Pomino, Carmignano and Valdarno Superiore’ … a DOC appellation ahead of its time.” – Sergio Zingarelli, President Consorzio Vino Chianti Classico

I tasted close to 200 wines to get a sense of the vintage, the ageing potential and my overall satisfaction with the wines that are coming and the wines that have been – I stayed away from barrel samples (mostly) trying finished wines that dated all the way back to 2006.

Below is a list of the wines that truly represented, to me, the best of the Chianti Classico wines I tasted (in alphabetical order by producer / by star rating), also broken down by classification: Classico, Classico Riserva and Gran Seleczione.


(All scoring is out of 5 stars)

Chianti Classico (DOCG) …

Three-and-a-Half Stars …
Castello d’Albola 2013 Chianti Classico “Castello d’Albola”
Riecine 2013 Chianti Classico “Riecine”
Tenuta La Novella 2014 Chianti Classico “Casa di Colombo”
Torcibrencoli 2013 Chianti Classico “Maria Gioconda”
Val delle Corti 2013 Chianti Classico “Val delle Corti”

Three-and-a-Half PLUS Stars …
Barone Ricasoli 2013 Chianti Classico “Brolio Bettino”
Borgo Scopeto 2013 Chianti Classico “Borgo Scopeto”
Brancaia 2014 Chianti Classico “Brancaia”
Castelli del Grevepesa 2012 Chianti Classico “Clemente VII”
Cigliano 2013 Chianti Classico “Cigliano”
Collazzi 2013 Chianti Classico “I Bastioni”
Fontodi 2013 Chianti Classico “Fontodi”
Losi Querciavalle 2011 Chianti Classico “Querciavalle”
Luiano 2014 Chianti Classico “Luiano”
Ormanni 2012 Chianti Classico “Ormanni”
Podere Capaccia 2013 Chianti Classico “Podere Capaccia”
Querciabella 2013 Chianti Classico “Querciabella”
Tenuta Cappellina 2013 Chianti Classico “Tenuta Cappellina”

Four Stars …
Badia a Coltibuono 2014 Chianti Classico Riserva “Badia a Coltibuono”
Bibbiano 2013 Chianti Classico “Bibbiano”
Carpineto 2014 Chianti Classico “Carpineto”
Castell’in Villa 2011 Chianti Classico “Castell’in Villa”
Castello di Cacchiano 2011 Chianti Classico “Castello di Cacchiano”
Castelvecchi 2013 Chianti Classico “Capotondo”
Fattoria di Corsignano 2013 Chianti Classico “Fattoria di Corsignano”
Fattoria San Michele a Torri 2013 Chianti Classico “Tenuta La Gabbiola”
Felsina 2014 Chianti Classico “Berardenga”
Lamole di Lamole 2013 Chianti Classico “Lamole di Lamole”
Monteraponi 2014 Chianti Classico “Baron‘Ugo”
Panzanello 2014 Chianti Classico “Panzanello”
Podere Il Palazzino 2012 Chianti Classico “Argenina”
Principe Corsini – Villa Le Corti 2013 Chianti Classico “Le Corti”
Setriolo 2012 Chianti Classico “Setriolo”




Chianti Classico Riserva (DOCG) …

Three-and-a-Half Stars …
Bindi Sergardi 2011 Chianti Classico Riserva “Calidonia”
Brancaia 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva “Brancaia”
Caparsa 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva “Doccio a Matteo”
Castello di Ama 2006 Chianti Classico Riserva “Castello di Ama”
Fietri 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva “Fietri”
Le Fonti 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva “Le Fonti”
Le Masse 2013 Chianti Classico “Le Masse”
Le Masse 2012 Chianti Classico “Le Masse”
Villa Mangiacane 2011 Chianti Classico Riserva “Mangiacane”

Three-and-a-Half PLUS Stars …
Borgo Scopeto 2011 Chianti Classico Riserva “Vigna Misciano”
Castellare di Castellina 2013 Chianti Classico Riserva “Castellare”
Castelli del Grevepesa 2011 Chianti Classico Riserva “Clemente VII”
Castello di Cacchiano 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva “Castello di Cacchiano”
Castello di Radda 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva “Castello di Radda”
Dievole 2013 Chianti Classico Riserva “Novecento”
Il Molino di Grace 2009 Chianti Classico Riserva “Il Molino di Grace”
Lamole di Lamole 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva “Lamole di Lamole”
Panzanello 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva “Panzanello”
Poggio Borgoni 2011 Chianti Classico Riserva “Borromeo”
Querciabella 2011 Chianti Classico Riserva “Querciabella”
San Leonino 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva “Monsenese”
Val delle Corti 2013 Chianti Classico Riserva “Val delle Corti”
Villa di Greggiano 2009 Chianti Classico Riserva “Villa di Greggiano”

Four Stars …
Antinori 2013 Chianti Classsico Riserva “Villa Antinori”
Banfi 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva  “Banfi”
Bibbiano 2013 Chianti Classico Riserva “Montornello”
Castell’in Villa 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva “Castell’in Villa”
Fattoria di Corsignano 2013 Chianti Classico Riserva “L’Imperatore”
Fattoria La Ripa 2009 Chianti Classico Riserva “Fattoria La Ripa”
Felsina 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva “Rancia”
Ormanni 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva “Borro del Diavolo”
Podere La Cappella 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva “Querciolo”
Santo Stefano 2013 Chianti Classico Riserva “Drugo”

Four PLUS Stars …
Badia a Coltibuono 2011 Chianti Classico Riserva “Badia a Coltibuono”
Castello di Volpaia 2012 Chianti Classico Riserva “Coltassala”
Tenuta di Arceno 2010 Chianti Classico Riserva “Strada al Sasso”



Gran Selezione DOCG …
On the first day many writers start with these wines and ignore the “simpler” wines saving them for the following day – thus when I get around to tasting them many are finished / unavailable … in my opinion Gran Selezione should be the reward, the dessert, not the appetizer and main course.


Three-and-a-Half PLUS Stars …
Bibbiano 2011 Chianti Classico “Gran Selezione” – Vigne del Capannino
Villa Calcinaia 2013 Chianti Classico “Gran Selezione” – Vigna Contessa Luisa

Four Stars …
Antinori 2011 Chianti Classico “Gran Selezione” Badia a Passignano
Castello di Querceto 2012 Chianti Classico “Gran Selezione” – Il Picchio

Four PLUS Stars …
Renzo Marinai 2011 Chianti Classico “Gran Selezione” – Renzo Marinai


Potential (barrel samples) …
I didn’t taste many barrel samples (unfinished wine) but the ones I did taste, and had potential for the future will be listed here – these are wines I’m hoping for good things from once it goes into bottle.

Banfi 2014 Chianti Classico DOCG “Fonte alla Selva”
Castello di Radda 2014 Chianti Classico DOCG “Castello di Radda”
Cigliano 2014 Chianti Classico DOCG “Cigliano”
Gagliole 2014 Chianti Classico DOCG “Rubiolo”
Isole e Olena 2014 Chianti Classico DOCG “Isole e Olena”

______________________________________ 

Taste of Tuscany ...
Goodies for after the tasting showcasing the bounty of Tuscany - 
none of these foods need any introduction. 







 

Wednesday, March 2, 2016

Report from: Chianti Lovers Tasting – February 14, 2016


What a way to spend Valentine’s Day, tasting Chianti by the truck load … if my counting is right, or the numbering on the paper in front of me is right (meaning they didn’t skip any), then I have 183 Chianti wines to try – but I doubt that can be done in the few hours I have – so let’s take a look at a sampling.

This is the tasting of the Chianti’s that are part of the non-Classico areas: Chianti; Colli Arentini; Colli Fiorentini; Colli Senesi; Colline Pisane; Montalbano; Montespertoli and Rufina … all Chianti, all DOCG – just not Classico.

As mentioned, with about 183 wines to try and super slow service (at one point I got up to get my own bottles and was chastised for doing so … twice) … I only ended up trying 42 of the wines (over a 3 hour period) – definitely not my usual pace; but it was enough of a sampling to get a feel for each region and the wines / styles they are producing … plus I was even able to cobble together a top three.



All Chiantis were tasted blind, are DOCG from region indicated and in alphabetical order
(All scoring is out of 5 stars)

Three-and-a-Half Stars …
Azienda Agricola Il Ciliegio 2015 Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG
Colognole 2015 Chianti DOCG
Fattoria Casabianca 2015 Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG
Fattoria di Fiano 2013 Chianti DOCG - Riserva
Frascole 2013 Chianti Rufina DOCG - Riserva
Poggiotondo 2014 Chianti Superiore DOCG
Tenuta Cantagallo e La Farnete 2013 Chianti Montalbano DOCG - Riserva
Tenuta Il Palazzo 2015 Chianti DOCG
Tenuta Tresanti 2015 Chianti Montespertoli DOCG

Three-and-a-Half PLUS Stars …
Azienda Agricola Castel di Pugna 2015 Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG
Azienda Agricola La Cignozza 2015 Chianti DOCG
Campochiarenti 2015 Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG
Fattoria Lavacchio 2015 Chianti DOCG
Fattoria Lavacchio 2014 Chianti Rufina DOCG
Fattoria Lavacchio 2013 Chianti DOCG - Riserva
La Querce 2014 Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG
Mannucci Droandi 2015 Chianti Colli Aretini DOCG
Tenuta di Morzano 2013 Chianti Montespertoli DOCG - Riserva
Tenuta Il Palazzo 2013 Chianti DOCG - Riserva

Four Stars …
Azienda Agricola Montechiaro 2015 Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG
Castello di Gabbiano 2015 Chianti DOCG
Colognole 2014 Chianti Rufina DOCG
Fattoria Lavacchio 2013 Chianti Rufina DOCG - Riserva
Fattoria San Fabiano 2014 Chianti Superiore DOCG
Guidi 1929 2015 Chianti DOCG

Four PLUS Stars …
Guidi 1929 2013 Chianti DOCG – Riserva
Marchesi De’ Frescobaldi 2013 Chianti Rufina DOCG - Riserva


Top Three Wines of My Tasting …
Actually pretty obvious from the above notes but the third might not be:

Guidi 1929 2013 Chianti DOCG – Riserva
Marchesi De’ Frescobaldi 2013 Chianti Rufina DOCG - Riserva
Guidi 1929 2015 Chianti DOCG

Special mention of my top producers …
I really enjoyed the wines from Guidi 1929 they had consistent quality (and proved it again a few days later in San Gimignano); the other producer did not become as obvious until I started typing up these notes: Fattoria Lavacchio, making the list 4 times.

____________________________________

My Valentine’s Day dinner was spent with Jamie Drummond of Good Food Revolution at a little Osteria in “downtown” Florence

We were looking for a different place,
but got "lost" and stumbled upon this one
A look in the window and you would think you were anywhere;
Tourist trap? - Maybe ... but the food was good
Meats and cheeses - fresh warm bread - local olives
How in the world can this be bad?  Answer: It wasn't
- This one's for my Podcasting partner in crime -
Yes Andre they still have this for the tourists ...
We finished 3 or 4 of these ... we lost count.


Ontario Wine Review Video #166: Creekside 2011 Broken Press Syrah

Tuesday, March 1, 2016

Report from: Benvenuto Brunello 2016 – February 19, 2016

The interesting part about Brunello is that it is not a one-size fits all wine and there are so many different styles to choose from: classic Brunello with its old world charm, modern Brunello with its high alcohol and big fruit and then there are Aussie-style Brunello that have gobs of fruit and wood and spice; what a fellow writer called “for the North American palate” (funny part is, he was from North America).

Today 127 producers showed off their wares from the 2011 vintage, plus the 2010 Riserva and a number of other wines – without getting too in-depth 127 producers with a minimum of two wines to taste equals 254 – and that’s not taking into account single vineyard offerings, Rossos and any other specialty wine they wanted to showcase; and with only a day to taste one must make hard choices of what to specialize in … I chose the 2011 Brunello di Montalcino.

Below are some of my selections (based on the wines I tried – looking at the above numbers and the time restraints, I hope you would agree with me when I say, one just can’t do ‘em all):


All Brunellos are from the 2011 vintage and in alphabetical order within the rating
(All scoring is out of 5 stars)

Three-and-a-Half Stars …
Lisini 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
San Polo 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Sesti 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Tenuta Crocedimezzo 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Val di Suga 2011 Brunello di Montalcino “Val di Suga”

Three-and-a-Half PLUS Stars …
Antinori 2011 Brunello di Montalcino “Pian delle Vigne”
Carpineto 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Col D’Orcia 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Donatella Cinelli Colombini 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Il Poggione 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
La Gerla 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Mocali 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Palazzo 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Poggio Il Castellare 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Tenuta San Giorgio 2011 Brunello di Montalcino “Ugolforte”
Tiezzi 2011 Brunello di Montalcino “Poggio Cerrino”
Vasco Sassetti 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Villa Poggio Salvi 2011 Brunello di Montalcino

Four Stars …
Banfi 2011 Brunello di Montalcino “Castello Banfi”
Barbi 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Brunelli 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Caparzo 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Fattoi 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Le Chiuse 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Poggio Antico 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Talenti 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Villa I Cipressi 2011 Brunello di Montalcino

Four PLUS Stars …
Argiano 2011 Brunello di Montalcino
Campogiovanni 2011 Brunello di Montalcino