Report from: A Meeting with Paul Hobbs - June 11, 2015

Do you know this man???

Let's assume for a moment that you have never heard the name Paul Hobbs - if that is indeed the case I'll bet you know some of the wineries where the wines have bore his signature: Robert Mondavi, Opus One, Simi, Peter Michael, Fisher, Lewis, Catena and a multitude of others. Some of these wines he has made directly, others he has consulted on the making of.  He event has his hands here in Ontario (Stratus) - Paul's reach and influence is felt everywhere.

His past is what made him today and his most famous story is how he came to work with Catena: he started consulting in 1989 and Nicolas Catena helped Paul start his own winery in California: "he was a great businessman," said Paul of Nicolas, "I was the wine guy; he helped me with the business side, I helped him make wine."

Today there is the winery that bears Paul's name, his Argentine project, Vina Cobos, and his newest project in his home state of New York with 65 acres on Seneca Lake (opening soon).

Today during the lunch and tasting we tasted wines from the two major Hobbs projects (California & Argentina) and hopefully, the next time he comes through town, he'll have stuff from New York ... Here we go:

We have come to the church of Paul Hobbs let us pray:

Today's Five Wines ...

Paul Hobbs 2013 Crossbarn Chardonnay ($29.95)
80% tank fermented / 20% in neutral French oak
Despite the majority of tank Chardonnay it's rich with a touch of spice on the finish;
creamy with spiced-apple, peach, hints of vanilla cream and lemon drop, good acidity.
Rating: ****

Paul Hobbs 2013 Russian River Chardonnay ($54.95)
12 months French oak, 47% new
Delicate vanilla cream, lemon drop, good acidity, and creamy mid-palate;
a lovely sipper: soft and silky on the finish.
Rating: ****+

Vina Cobos 2013 Felino Malbec ($19.95)
100% Malbec from a semi-desert climate
Aromas of blueberry and cassis; Palate is smoky with black currant,
vanilla and spice - needs time to smooth out those harsh edges.
Rating: *** 1/2+

Paul Hobbs 2012 Crossbarn Cabernet Sauvignon ($54.95)
20 months in French and American oak; 14% new
There's a nice sweet raspberry and cherry smell; palate is rich and succulent
with blackberry, red and black cherry, mocha, spice; slight chalky intensity to the finish.
Rating: ****+

Paul Hobbs 2011 Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley ($99.95)
95% Cabernet Sauvignon / 3% Petit Verdot / 1% Malbec and Cabernet Franc
Aged 20 months in French oak, 65% new
Aromas: sweet red and black fruit with chocolate and vanilla;
Palate: dark fruit with rich robust tannins; touch smoky-vanilla, blackberry,
cassis and a spicy long finish --- this wine has a long life ahead of it and
is one heck of a mouthfilling wine with lots of flavour; what a tasty wine.
Rating: **** 1/2

And he rests his case ... can I here an "Amen"

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Report from: Primium Familiae Vini Lunch - April 23, 2015

Is there any possible way to put into words the amazing wines and breadth of history that packed the room on this day, as the Primium Familiae Vini (PFV) came to Toronto to wine, dine and ... for lack of a good rhyming word ... impress the hell out of all in attendance.

These are all names you'd recognize, no matter what level of wine drinker you happen to be.  Names like Pol Roger, Drouhin, Muller, Torres, Antinori, Perrin, Rothschild and more: 11 in total, and the experience and history was enough to put one in awe.  So instead of waxing poetic about the what and who let's take a simultaneous look at the lunch (held at the Four Seasons Hotel) and the wines (one from each family).

You know it's gonna be a good party
when this is the appetizer wine:
--------------------
Pol Roger 2002 Sir Winston Churchill
biscuity, sour apple, almondine along with
notes of toffee and butterscotch
**** 1/2

The Look of Lunch ...

Foie Gras
Brioche, Laroda Plum, Lamb's Lettuce

Scallops
Kumquat, Baby Leek, Caviar

Cavatelli Pasta
Rabbit Confit, Preserved Tomato, Olives

Braised Bison Short Rib
Spring Carrots, Pommes Dauphines

Stilton Cheese
Fig, Walnut Crostini, Red Watercress

Wine a Little - Cause there's a lot of them ...

Many of the wines we tried today are no longer in the market place for purchase so no score will be given.

Famille Hugel 2010 Riesling Jubilee
wine made from top Crus
quite lovely with hints of elegant petrol

Joseph Drouhin 2012 Chablis Grand Cru 'Les Clos'
made from a 1.3 hectare parcel in Chablis
creamy texture, apricot, peach, nice minerality
with a hint of oxidation

Egon Muller Scharzhof 1994 Scharzhofberger Riesling Kabinett
the house of Muller dates back to 1797
stunningly young in both colour and freshness

Torres 2010 Mas La Plana
represented here today by Miguel Torres - 5th Generation
100% Cabernet Sauvignon - started making this wine in the late 60's
lots of dark fruit and spice; great complexity with power and heft

Tenuta San Guido 2009 Sassicaia
young by comparison, the winery was established in 1941
earthy, sour cherry, cassis - has the acidity of Sangiovese
yet the fruit and force of Bordeaux

Famille Perrin 2005 Chateau Beaucastel
dark fruit and spice; a real delicious endeavour

Antinori 2007 Solaia
name meaning "looking at the sun" - label started in 1978
this wine has an incredible power in the glass with a long life ahead

Chateau Mouton Rothschild 2005 Pauillac
Julien Beaumarchais de Rothschild had plenty of quoteable moments:
"wedding between great family and terroir"
"way beyond business puposes, it's about the soul"
As for the wine: menthol, dark fruit with oak and cassis

Vega-Sicilia 2004 Unico
"close to a perfect vintage" - 90% Tempranillo / 10% Cabernet Sauvignon
this wine is only produced in the 'great years'
a pure delight on the palate and perfect match with the short ribs -
but this one was also a wonderful wine on its own

Symington Family - Graham's 1977 Vintage Port
if there is a God and he drinks port regularly
he's got a few cases of this in his cellar

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Report from ... Nobilo Lunch and Icon Tasting - August 19, 2015

Just like they do in the best regions of France, Nobilo concentrates on few varieties of grapes to make their wines; instead of trying to be everything to everybody they focus on Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc and try to make the best expression of each variety.

Today we had a chance to taste something old (2010) something new (2015) and the stuff in-between from this (no pun intended) iconic winery.

Founded in 1943 by Nikola Nobilo an immigrant to New Zealand by way of the Dalmatian Coast of Croatia (an island called Korcula); who came to his new land in the 30's.  Back in Croatia the Nobilo family had acquired some 300 years of wine making experience and tradition and with that knowledge they planted their first vines west of Auckland in the early 40's.

Today's line up of wines: 2015-2010 (3 whites / 3 reds)

And a look at the lunch menu ... more on that later

Our host, Dave Edmonds, Senior Winemaker Nobilo (second from left)
answered questions and talked about wines, vintages and regions

Chef Tom Riley, originally from New Zealand, took his inspiration
from the wines presented - fusing Canadian and New Zealand cuisine
(more like New Zealand food concepts with Local ingredients)

The whites are poured, so let's kick this thing off ...

The Wines ...

2014 Regional Collection Sauvignon Blanc ($16.95 - #415745)
Nose: grapefruit, lemon, grassy and pineapple core
Taste: seemingly sweet fruity entry lovely pith notes,
long finish juicy pink grapefruit finish and dry linger
Rating: ****

2014 Icon Sauvignon Blanc
juicy of citrus and passionfruit, soft acidity with a long finish,
there's also a mineral compenent like "raindrops on hot concrete"
softer, weightier and more mouthfilling than Regional
Rating: *** 1/2+

2010 Icon Pinot Noir
licorice-spice, high acidity, cassis and violets,
cedary-oak notes prevail on the finish, even a little smoky
I found this wine to be overtly smoky and cedary
No rating - wine is no longer available

2013 Icon Pinot Noir
Nose: nice lean fruit that's a dark and red mix with floral/violet;
showy but not flamboyant - good acidity
Taste: follows the nose, delicate yet still masculine
with a spiced-raspberry finish
Rating: ****

2014 Icon Pinot Noir
Nose: more in-your-face with red fruits and plum, real sexy fruit
violets and floral notes with hints of anise
Taste: hints of white pepper and herbal notes on the finish;
a really bold solidly good wine
Rating: ****+

The Lunchtime Inspirations ...

Smoked Tomato Soup
with miso creme fraiche

Fogo Island Crab Kina
with butter, pappardelle & preserved lemon

Roasted Lamb Rump
with minted potatoes, peas & saffron labna

Passion Fruit & Vanilla Cheesecake
with stewed tamarillo

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Report from ... La Ferme du Mont Lunch and Tasting - July 21, 2015

The set up for La Ferme du Mont

A lunch and tasting at the Novotel Esplanade in Toronto (Cafe Nicole) with winemaker and owner of La Ferme du Mont winery in the Rhone Valley, Stephane Vedeau ... eight wines were poured - 6 scheduled and two special wines that Stephane "brought over in his luggage".  Here's what we learned ...

"Making wine is only interesting when the terroir is special."

- Stephane Vedeau

2014 La Truffiere ($16.95)
50% Grenache White, 40% Viognier (3% Botrytis Affected), 10% Clairette
Nice acidity with pineapple, melon and minerality - long finish and good weight
(*** 1/2+)

2014 Rose ($16.95)
100% Grenache
Aromas full of citrus pith followed on the palate with
raspberry and grapefruit pith - dry and refreshing
(*** 1/2)

First of the "special" wines
2012 Clos Bellene "Les Echalas" ($16.95)
100% Rousanne (late harvested in November)
Aromas of melon and pineapple rind with lime zest
Mouthfeel is round and thick, dry and pleasant
Impressive vicosity with a buckwheat linger
(*** 1/2+)

2012 "Premier Cote" - Cote du Rhone ($14.95)
60% Grenache, 30% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre
Pinot-esque in its delicacy: mineral, raspberry, sour cherry
with blackberry, cassis and some savoury notes - fresh and clean
14.2% alcohol is not noticeable on either the nose or palate
(****)

2012 "Le Ponnant" - Cote du Rhone Villages ($18.95)
60% Grenache (oldest vineyards), 40% Syrah
Licorice, spice, blackberry, spiced-cranberry, loads of acidity
with great mid-palate layered with red and black fruit.
Keeps getting better and fruitier with each sip.
Finishes with licorice, black cherry and blackberry
(****+)

2013 "Jugundas" - Gigondas ($29.95)
80% Grenache, 20% Syrah
Big red berry notes with hints of anise, vanilla, smoke and
minerality ... fresh, full and lovely with raspberry, strawberry
and pepper on the finish. Savoury, supple and floral - great value
(**** 1/2)

Second of the "special" wines
2013 Clos Bellene "Purete 400"
100% Grenache
Red licorice, raspberry, strawberry jam - fruity and fun
misleadingly light, simple yet balanced and delicious
(*** 1/2+)

2011 "Cote Capelan" - Chateauneuf du Pape ($80.00)
80% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvedre
2.5 hectares of pre-phylloxera Grenache aged in top selection of oak.
Rich red and black fruit with chocolate, cherry, blackberry, licorice
and spice - nice balanced tannins
(**** 1/2)

Other Pictures from the Lunch ...

Stephane Vedeau talks about his wines

The eight wines of the tasting

Simple sirloin for lunch paired well with the Rhone reds

Rich chocolate cake for dessert - another red pairing

"Super Sommelier" Zoltan Szabo examines the wine

For more wine reviews and related articles go to www.michaelpinkuswinereview.com,
while there sign up for Michael's free bi-weekly newsletter.