The great South African wines rarely reach our shores,
but this one must have escaped, and I am so glad it did:
Neil Ellis 2021 Syrah
Showing posts with label Wines of South Africa. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Wines of South Africa. Show all posts
Friday, August 23, 2024
Monday, November 9, 2020
Monday, November 16, 2015
Saturday, January 24, 2015
Report from ... Mark Anthony 2nd Annual Portfolio Tasting - November 5, 2014
Below is a look at some of the best wines poured at the Mark Anthony Portfolio Tasting listed by country.
Canada ...
Argentina ...
France ...
Italy ...
Spain ...
South Africa ...
Canada ...
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| Mission Hill 2010 Quatrain ($45.95) 40% Merlot / 20% Cabernet Sauvignon / 20% Cabernet Franc / 20% Syrah 12 months new French oak - fruit from Southern Okanagan blueberry, cocoa, vanilla backed by black cherry and touch of spice (****) |
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| Mission Hill 2010 Compendium ($45.95) 41% Cabernet Sauvignon / 38% Merlot / 21% Cabernet Franc 13 months new French oak - fruit from Black Sage and Osoyoos vineyards sweet black cherry, vanilla, creamy smooth with a silkyness that contains cocoa and a touch of smoke (**** 1/2) |
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| Mission Hill 2010 Oculus ($80.95) 51% Merlot / 26% Cabernet Sauvignon / 23% Cabernet Franc 14 months new French oak - the wine is always Merlot dominated chocolate and black cherry with an element of spice that tickles and plays across the tongue (****) |
Argentina ...
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| Dona Paula 2012 1100 Elevation ($19.95) 60% Malbec / 30% Cabernet Sauvignon / 10% Syrah single vineyard wine made from the Uco Valley smooth, raspberry, cherry, chocolate and peppery notes that really punch on the finish ... very enticing. (****) |
France ...
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| Louis Latour 2008 Volnay 1er Cru "En Chevret" ($70.21) A nice blend of cherry and spice but with a smooth palate that shows acidity and cranberry cocktail. (****) |
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| Lanson 2006 Tsarine Blanc de Blanc ($59.95) This is a mineral dominated 100% Chardonnay Grand Cru sparkler with big green apple and lemon that's mouth-puckering with good acidity. (****+) |
Italy ...
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| Eugenio Collavini 2012 More ($16.95) blend of 40% Refosco and 60% Merlot - aged 12 months in oak Blackberry and rich cassis with blueberry and black cherry; smooth and quite supple (****) |
Spain ...
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| Vivanco 2007 Crianza ($27.30) 100% Tempranillo aged 16 months in most American oak lots of nice spicy notes but all backed by vanilla and spiced cherry (*** 1/2+) |
South Africa ...
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| Nederburg 2011 Motorcycle Marvel ($24.95) Grenache / Carignan / Syrah / Mourvedre / Cinsault Smoky dark fruit and elegant spice (*** 1/2+) |
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| Nederburg 2011 Manor House Cabernet Sauvignon ($16.95) Cocoa, smoke, vanilla, blackberry, cassis and black pepper (*** 1/2+) |
United States ...
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| Davis Bynum 2012 Jane's Vineyard Pinot Noir ($36.95) Sweet cran-cherry with raspberry, strawberry, nice spice and good acidity (*** 1/2+) |
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| Rodney Strong 2010 Brothers Ridge Single Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($99.95) 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from 1200 foot elevation with 21 months in French oak Juicy with vanilla and smoke backing; black cherry and blackberry are the fruits - this one is most definitely smooth, sultry and sexy. (**** 1/2) |
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| Rodney Strong 2011 Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon ($27.95) 91% Cabernet Sauvignon with Malbec, Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot also in here Nice cherry and black cherry with sweet cherry and vanilla (****) |
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| Rodney Strong 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Reserve ($59.95) 100% Cabernet Sauvignon - 21 months French oak Smooth, almost creamy upon entry with a hint of spice on the finish, all wrapped around lovely black and blue fruit (****+) |
New Zealand ...
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| Sacred Hill 2013 "Halo" Pinot Noir ($22.95) Pinot Noir made from 9 year old vines - aged in new and 1 year old oak Great fruit with a cherry-cranberry cocktail; nice tannins, good acidity, touch smoky with great red fruit. (**** 1/2) |
Australia ...
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| Tyrrell's 2011 Winemaker Selection Vat 8 Hunter Shiraz-Cabernet ($17.08) Rich in fruit touched by white pepper (*** 1/2+) |
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| Tyrrell's 2012 Lost Block Shiraz ($17.08) Chocolate and white pepper with plenty of blackberry and black cherry (****) |
Portugal ...
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| Cockburn's 2000 Quinta dos Cannais Vintage Port ($39.95) Already aged and ready to buy and drink now ... chocolate, black cherry, spice, sexy and smooth with enough acidity and spice to keep you coming back for more (****+) |
Wednesday, December 18, 2013
Report from ... KWV Lunch and Tasting - September 23, 2013
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| Lunch and Tasting with ... Richard Rowe , KWV Chief Winemaker at Spencer in Burlington |
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| Cathedral Cellar 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon ($15.95 - #328567) 14-16 months in 40% first fill barrels; 96% French / 4% American lots of dark and red fruit, smoky, cocoa powder, nice lingering spice delicious dark smoky finish (****+) |
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| Roodeberg 2011 Red ($12.95 - #007187) The blend: Cab Sauv (40%), Shiraz (30%), Merlot (20%), Petit Verdot (10%) 10% in barrel - the rest is done with oak staves Richard says the "Petit Verdot is the most interesting aspect, it holds the acid really well" Richard: "in the past we sat on this wine too long - we release them earlier for freshness and vibrancy" Aromas of red and blue fruit - Fruit driven palate: blueberry, blackberry, white pepper, nice acidity with smoky elements good finish with a touch of coffee (****) |
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| KWV (Contemporary Collection) 2013 Chenin Blanc ($9.45 - #18689) An amazing fresh and fruity wine with no oak maturation nose: lanolin, pineapple, tropical notes, peach pit and melon taste: follows from the nose pleasantly along with Bosc pear skin Great patio sipper and party pleaser (*** 1/2+) |
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| Cafe Culture 2012 Pinotage ($9.45 - #18689) if you like coffee and mocha this is your wine you'll also find hints of raspberry in the mix (*** 1/2+) |
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| As for the lunch, this was the best dish: can't remember what it was but it was delicious. |
Friday, December 30, 2011
Report from ... Wines of South Africa Workshop - June 15, 2011
This was an all-day affair hosted on the 2nd floor of Morton’s Steakhouse (on Avenue Road). Four seminars all dealing with South African wine and their many ilk.
Seminar One – Chenin Blanc (10:30am) … We were here to taste some 39 wines starting with the (once and future) king of South African whites, Chenin Blanc, described as the Cinderella grape. Years ago the South Africans called it “Steen”, which means brick, because the bunches come off the vine in a seemingly heavy brick form … but recently the proper name for the grape is being used to market the wines outside of South Africa. Originally this noble variety was planted as a Brandy grape, but many winemakers have taken it under their wing and decided to make more serious wines from it. South Africa has the largest production area of Chenin, double its nearest competition for the grape’s affection, the Loire Valley in France. The reason for its popularity is simple: 9 out of 10 years the majority of regions of South Africa can ripen all their grapes. It represents 50% of all white production, 20% of all wine production, and 55% of all Chenin vines in South Africa are 15+ years old. We tasted 11 Chenins, with vintage dates ranging from 2006-2010 here is my top three:
FMC 2009 Chenin Blanc – this wine just had it all, the nose was full of buttery-toffee with n undercurrent of tropical fruit and vanilla. The palate had a sweet sensation with vanilla caramel and tropical fruits; lively and fresh with vanilla-butter on the finish. Lots of yum-factor here. The wine was barrel fermented in 100% new oak, left on lees for the whole time and the Chenin vines used are well over 40 years old. (**** ½)
Mulderbosch 2010 Chenin Blanc / Steen-op-Hout – honeydew rind goes from start to finish here with lively freshness; there’s a slight bitterness but it adds to the charm of this wine with a finish that has lime and grapefruit pith that lingers a long time. (*** ½+)
Bellingham 2010 Citrus Grove – lives up to its name with citrus and pear notes on the nose and a rather fruity palate delivering citrus and melon rind. (*** ½)
Seminar Two – Always Something New (11:30am) … The topic refers to sustainability and fair trade wines coming out of South Africa and focused on three wineries: Paul Cluver, Reyneke and Thandi, for a total of nine wines tasted. The Reyneke wines offered little to right home about, and Thandi’s 2010 Shiraz (70%) – Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), which was full of red berry and licorice flavours was the only reason to sing their praises (*** ½+); but each Cluver seemed better than the next, and somewhat surprisingly, all were white. 2010 Sauvignon Blanc was a lovely example of Savvy B with citrus and mineral on the nose, lime and guava on the palate and leaves behind a grapefruit pith finish (*** ½+). The 2009 Chardonnay was classically Chardonnay in style: vanilla toastiness with good mouth-feel and a touch of beeswax/lanolin across the tongue (****). Then came the low alcohol (9.75%) 2010 Close Encounter Riesling with its apple, pear and steely mineral notes along with a hint of sweetness; creamy in the mouth without being yogurty (****).
Seminar Three – Good Better Blends (2:00pm) … seminars three and four had a similar bent, mainly red wines and blends, but we’ll get to seminar four in a minute. Out of the seven wines poured during this hour only two were whites and one of those whites made my hit parade.
Waterford Estate 2007 The Jem – this seven grape blend that includes Barbera, Mourvedre, Sangiovese, Syrah and three other main Bordeaux varietal which spent 26 months in oak and was deliciously dark fruited and juicy, yet had enough firm tannins to remind you it could stand some ageing. Also found some raspberry and chocolate notes within … the wine had a whole whack of flavour (**** ½).
Nederburg 2008 Ingenuity Red – strange bowling pin shaped bottle hints not at what’s inside. This is an Italian grape blend of Sangiovese (45%), Barbera (45%) and Nebiollo (10%) with juicy red fruit flavours, starting with cherry leading to chocolate and red licorice; sweet fruited and drinkably tasty (****+).
Lomond 2009 Snowbush – this wine beat out my fourth place wine (Plaisir de Merle 2007 Grand Plaisir) by half a mark. A Sauvignon Blanc heavy blend (54%) with three other grapes mixed in (Nouvelle, Semillon/Viognier), good citrus tones with melon rind and tropical flavours … the finish is a pleasant mix of vanilla and honeydew (****).
Seminar Four – Flagship Reds (3:30pm) … a full dozen wines were poured for this round and I singled out a top three selection, and a bubbling under 2, for a top 5.
Warwick 2008 Three Cape Ladies – sweet red berries and spice with vanilla-raspberry tannins that massage more than rip across the tongue, than there are pleasing chocolate notes that roll along the mid-palate to the finish (****+)
MR de Compostella 2007 – this one has some of those typical tarry South African notes, but there’s also dark fruit, spice, cocoa and some red fruit action here, that helps carry things thru to its pleasing conclusion (****+)
De Toren 2004 Fusion V – this Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wine is smooth and juicy with dark fruit, spiced-vanilla, mocha and some charred wood and fruit sensations on the finish; this needs some time and was poured alongside the 2009 vintage of the same wine. If the ’09 is going where the ’04 is my suggestion is to stock up (****)
Bubbling under bottles …
Vilafonte 2007 Series C – chocolate coated dark berries with spiced-mocha on the finish (****)
De Toren 2009 Z – this is the other side of V, dominated by Merlot, here you’ll find a more simple wine than the more than its complex laden counterpart (Fusion Z), here we have the subtlety of blueberry and chocolate with decent tannins holding it together (*** ½)
In a Class All its Own …
During the Chenin tasting of seminar 1 we were poured a Kanu Kia Ora 2006 Noble Late Harvest, another version of Chenin Blanc, this time on the sweet side. Honeyed-apricot and pears, dried peach and mango with a vanilla-buttery finish … delightful and playful dessert wine that seemed out of place amongst all those dry versions, but it deserved to be singled out as something decidedly different and wonderful all at the same time (*** ½+)
Seminar One – Chenin Blanc (10:30am) … We were here to taste some 39 wines starting with the (once and future) king of South African whites, Chenin Blanc, described as the Cinderella grape. Years ago the South Africans called it “Steen”, which means brick, because the bunches come off the vine in a seemingly heavy brick form … but recently the proper name for the grape is being used to market the wines outside of South Africa. Originally this noble variety was planted as a Brandy grape, but many winemakers have taken it under their wing and decided to make more serious wines from it. South Africa has the largest production area of Chenin, double its nearest competition for the grape’s affection, the Loire Valley in France. The reason for its popularity is simple: 9 out of 10 years the majority of regions of South Africa can ripen all their grapes. It represents 50% of all white production, 20% of all wine production, and 55% of all Chenin vines in South Africa are 15+ years old. We tasted 11 Chenins, with vintage dates ranging from 2006-2010 here is my top three:
FMC 2009 Chenin Blanc – this wine just had it all, the nose was full of buttery-toffee with n undercurrent of tropical fruit and vanilla. The palate had a sweet sensation with vanilla caramel and tropical fruits; lively and fresh with vanilla-butter on the finish. Lots of yum-factor here. The wine was barrel fermented in 100% new oak, left on lees for the whole time and the Chenin vines used are well over 40 years old. (**** ½)
Mulderbosch 2010 Chenin Blanc / Steen-op-Hout – honeydew rind goes from start to finish here with lively freshness; there’s a slight bitterness but it adds to the charm of this wine with a finish that has lime and grapefruit pith that lingers a long time. (*** ½+)
Bellingham 2010 Citrus Grove – lives up to its name with citrus and pear notes on the nose and a rather fruity palate delivering citrus and melon rind. (*** ½)
Seminar Two – Always Something New (11:30am) … The topic refers to sustainability and fair trade wines coming out of South Africa and focused on three wineries: Paul Cluver, Reyneke and Thandi, for a total of nine wines tasted. The Reyneke wines offered little to right home about, and Thandi’s 2010 Shiraz (70%) – Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), which was full of red berry and licorice flavours was the only reason to sing their praises (*** ½+); but each Cluver seemed better than the next, and somewhat surprisingly, all were white. 2010 Sauvignon Blanc was a lovely example of Savvy B with citrus and mineral on the nose, lime and guava on the palate and leaves behind a grapefruit pith finish (*** ½+). The 2009 Chardonnay was classically Chardonnay in style: vanilla toastiness with good mouth-feel and a touch of beeswax/lanolin across the tongue (****). Then came the low alcohol (9.75%) 2010 Close Encounter Riesling with its apple, pear and steely mineral notes along with a hint of sweetness; creamy in the mouth without being yogurty (****).
Seminar Three – Good Better Blends (2:00pm) … seminars three and four had a similar bent, mainly red wines and blends, but we’ll get to seminar four in a minute. Out of the seven wines poured during this hour only two were whites and one of those whites made my hit parade.
Waterford Estate 2007 The Jem – this seven grape blend that includes Barbera, Mourvedre, Sangiovese, Syrah and three other main Bordeaux varietal which spent 26 months in oak and was deliciously dark fruited and juicy, yet had enough firm tannins to remind you it could stand some ageing. Also found some raspberry and chocolate notes within … the wine had a whole whack of flavour (**** ½).
Nederburg 2008 Ingenuity Red – strange bowling pin shaped bottle hints not at what’s inside. This is an Italian grape blend of Sangiovese (45%), Barbera (45%) and Nebiollo (10%) with juicy red fruit flavours, starting with cherry leading to chocolate and red licorice; sweet fruited and drinkably tasty (****+).
Lomond 2009 Snowbush – this wine beat out my fourth place wine (Plaisir de Merle 2007 Grand Plaisir) by half a mark. A Sauvignon Blanc heavy blend (54%) with three other grapes mixed in (Nouvelle, Semillon/Viognier), good citrus tones with melon rind and tropical flavours … the finish is a pleasant mix of vanilla and honeydew (****).
Seminar Four – Flagship Reds (3:30pm) … a full dozen wines were poured for this round and I singled out a top three selection, and a bubbling under 2, for a top 5.
Warwick 2008 Three Cape Ladies – sweet red berries and spice with vanilla-raspberry tannins that massage more than rip across the tongue, than there are pleasing chocolate notes that roll along the mid-palate to the finish (****+)
MR de Compostella 2007 – this one has some of those typical tarry South African notes, but there’s also dark fruit, spice, cocoa and some red fruit action here, that helps carry things thru to its pleasing conclusion (****+)
De Toren 2004 Fusion V – this Cabernet Sauvignon dominant wine is smooth and juicy with dark fruit, spiced-vanilla, mocha and some charred wood and fruit sensations on the finish; this needs some time and was poured alongside the 2009 vintage of the same wine. If the ’09 is going where the ’04 is my suggestion is to stock up (****)
Bubbling under bottles …
Vilafonte 2007 Series C – chocolate coated dark berries with spiced-mocha on the finish (****)
De Toren 2009 Z – this is the other side of V, dominated by Merlot, here you’ll find a more simple wine than the more than its complex laden counterpart (Fusion Z), here we have the subtlety of blueberry and chocolate with decent tannins holding it together (*** ½)
In a Class All its Own …
During the Chenin tasting of seminar 1 we were poured a Kanu Kia Ora 2006 Noble Late Harvest, another version of Chenin Blanc, this time on the sweet side. Honeyed-apricot and pears, dried peach and mango with a vanilla-buttery finish … delightful and playful dessert wine that seemed out of place amongst all those dry versions, but it deserved to be singled out as something decidedly different and wonderful all at the same time (*** ½+)
Monday, December 6, 2010
South Africa Wine Up the Ying Yang ... December 3, 2010
Tonight, I attended the South Africa Wine Society's (SAWS) annual holiday dinner, food was decent, the people I met were fun and entertaining, but not as entertaining as their keynote speaker (who happened to be me) ... As a wine writer I was very interested in the wines being poured. As I admitted in my address, on the whole I am not a huge fan of South African wine, I have liked quite a few, but many others have left me very cold with a bitter taste in my mouth. So tonight I wanted to see what the SAWS drinks: do they bring in and sample only the best? Turns out it was a very Graham Beck-centric evening, but their cellar was raided for some real gems.
We opened with a selection of Graham Beck LCBO general list wines that will soon be de-listed ... what a crime because the 2009 Chardonay/Viognier blend is absolutely delightful - now granted, not for a cold fall evening, but a real pleasure for hot days in summer, I hope this one comes back. Next we toasted the evening with a Graham Beck Non-Vintage Brut, the nose was loaded with toasted almond biscotti while the palate had the lightly sweet flavour of almond biscotti, all it was missing was the crunch. Next up, the dinner wines both from 2002: Hamilton Russell Pinot Noir and Graham Beck The Joshua. The Pinot was downright nasty: too old, no fruit, lousy smell - I took a sip just to see if nose and palate did not match-up, but they did ... "waiter, more water". The Joshua was a totally different story. A Shiraz/Viognier blend that was sublime: white pepper and cassis on the nose was followed by pepper, cassis, a hint of tar and some burnt toffee notes that replayed in the mouth as it lingered there ... yum (best wine of the evening - if I wasn't speaking I could see myself getting loopy on this one).
Finally, a Graham Beck 1999 Blanc de Blancs; first bottle was corked and even after I pointed it out to the table many continued to drink it and love it, forewarned is forearmed, but some people just don't understand - of course glassware would have made a difference but I hold out little hope that a banquet hall with invest in good glasses. A fresh glass was poured for me and it really was a beautiful wine, smells of Dulce de Leche on toast with a palate that proved to be quite nutty with hazelnuts and some baked apple. Lovely.
Thanks to the South Africa Wine Society for having me tonight, I had a great time, I hope they did too. To see pictures of the evening might I suggest heading over to my friend Andy McCraw's website, he's the official photographer of the SAWS, though I think he has doctered the pictures of me to make me look bigger.
Tuesday, June 22, 2010
Report from … South Africa, Let’s Celebrate – June 8, 2010
South Africa has a lot of celebrating to do. They are currently hosting the “world’s game” in the form of the FIFA World Cup plus they celebrated their 350th birthday (1659-2009) of winemaking history … not being a soccer fan that’s the one that most interests me. They were also here in Toronto promoting wines that will soon be, or are now, in the LCBO system. 18 wines were tasted, plus a couple others that were snuck in by the producer (they were only suppose to bring one). As usual I boil it down to a handful of must have / get wines. This time I give you the top 7, six of which are great value wines, the seventh is very tasty:
Cloof 2007 Inkspot Vin Noir ($14.00) – a red blend of Pinotage / Shiraz / Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon with 15% of the wine aged in small French oak barrels; there’s nice fruit here with coffee and mocha notes backing it up. (****)
Graham Beck 2009 GB Chardonnay/Viognier ($11.95) – an 80/20 blend of Chard to Vio creates this tropical fruit monster, with good balancing acidity, refreshing and tasty, crisp and delicious. Buy it by the case and open a bottle for any and all occasions this summer. Great before dinner all on its own. (****½)
Juno 2007 Arthouse Shiraz / Mourvedre ($14.95) – 14 months of age goes into making this 85/15 Shiraz to Mourvedre. Lots of sweet dark fruit, easy on the palate.
Slent Farms 2008 Ayama Cabernet Sauvignon ($13.95) – this unoaked Cab could fool even the most astute wine drinker into believing a barrel or two was used. 3 months on lees has added great complexity and intensity to this wine, then it is further aged in stainless steel for 1 year. Rich red fruit with chocolate and mocha – tannins are fairly gritty and intense. Outstanding value. (****½)
Tokara 2007 White ($24.95) – not the best value of the bunch but quite a tasty wine. This Sauvignon Blanc (85%) and Semillon (15%) aged in oak is creamy smooth with tropical, vanilla and citrus notes.
The Winery of Good Hope 2009 Pinot Noir ($14.95) – another excellent value and a tasty specimen to boot. Nice raspberry and vanilla notes on the nose; this Pinot is more Californian (fruity) than Burgundian (earthy) with a South Africa twist to it. (****½)
Vinimark Boekenhoutskloof 2009 Porcupine Ridge Syrah ($14.95) – a nice peppery chocolate number with black fruit nuances. (****)
Keep your eyes open for …
Lammershoek has a new blend on the horizon, a Chenin / Viognier summer sipper with fresh fruit flavours that has the potential to blow you away both on the nose and palate. Now, I did say ‘summer sipper’, but you’ll have to wait till summer 2011 … I know I’ll be looking for it.
Cloof 2007 Inkspot Vin Noir ($14.00) – a red blend of Pinotage / Shiraz / Cinsault and Cabernet Sauvignon with 15% of the wine aged in small French oak barrels; there’s nice fruit here with coffee and mocha notes backing it up. (****)
Graham Beck 2009 GB Chardonnay/Viognier ($11.95) – an 80/20 blend of Chard to Vio creates this tropical fruit monster, with good balancing acidity, refreshing and tasty, crisp and delicious. Buy it by the case and open a bottle for any and all occasions this summer. Great before dinner all on its own. (****½)
Juno 2007 Arthouse Shiraz / Mourvedre ($14.95) – 14 months of age goes into making this 85/15 Shiraz to Mourvedre. Lots of sweet dark fruit, easy on the palate.
Slent Farms 2008 Ayama Cabernet Sauvignon ($13.95) – this unoaked Cab could fool even the most astute wine drinker into believing a barrel or two was used. 3 months on lees has added great complexity and intensity to this wine, then it is further aged in stainless steel for 1 year. Rich red fruit with chocolate and mocha – tannins are fairly gritty and intense. Outstanding value. (****½)
Tokara 2007 White ($24.95) – not the best value of the bunch but quite a tasty wine. This Sauvignon Blanc (85%) and Semillon (15%) aged in oak is creamy smooth with tropical, vanilla and citrus notes.
The Winery of Good Hope 2009 Pinot Noir ($14.95) – another excellent value and a tasty specimen to boot. Nice raspberry and vanilla notes on the nose; this Pinot is more Californian (fruity) than Burgundian (earthy) with a South Africa twist to it. (****½)
Vinimark Boekenhoutskloof 2009 Porcupine Ridge Syrah ($14.95) – a nice peppery chocolate number with black fruit nuances. (****)
Keep your eyes open for …
Lammershoek has a new blend on the horizon, a Chenin / Viognier summer sipper with fresh fruit flavours that has the potential to blow you away both on the nose and palate. Now, I did say ‘summer sipper’, but you’ll have to wait till summer 2011 … I know I’ll be looking for it.
Thursday, February 11, 2010
Report from … A Couple of Glasses with Eleanor Cosman of Bokke Wines – February 10, 2010
This afternoon I had the pleasure of meeting up with Eleanor Cosman of Bokke Wines at the Monkey Bar (3353 Yonge Street) for a tasting of a few wines she is thinking of bringing into Ontario. Knowing Eleanor’s specialty I would have assumed we would be trying South African wines, but instead she lured me into the invite with something even more intriguing, Spanish wines, a wine region she does not currently have in her portfolio and a void she is looking to fill.
She kicked off the tasting with a Cava (Spanish sparkling) that was absolutely to die for, La Cruss Et D’or Brut Reserva – non-vintage Premium Limited Edition. The wine had fruity smells of fresh lemon and citrus along with sweet apple and a lovely finish – crisp, toasty and bready through the mid-palate ending with crisp mac apple squeezed with a hint of lemon on the finish (****½). She had yet to find out the price, but this will be a killer buy if it comes to our shores between $12 and $15 … though the words “Premium Limited Edition” scare me.
After such an illustrious start I would have to say it would have been hard to top it, and as expected the next four wines (all reds) did not measure up to that incredible starter. The best of which was a Bernat Oller 2006 Merlot with its violets, black and red fruit mix along with a touch of vanilla – it was a nice Merlot, and kind of a curiosity because you don’t see a lot of straight Merlot from Spain – but this one won’t set the world on fire, especially at it’s price (somewhere north of $25). I looked over at my glass of Cava, which was still happily bubbling away; I washed the reds down with what was left in the glass, still tasty.
I put my coat on ready to leave when Eleanor brought out a surprise wine, she asked if I minded giving my opinion on a new South African winery she was considering representing (she is, after all, the queen of South African wines, so I should have known I was not going to get away without tasting at least one). I never say no to sip on something new, so of course I said yes. Out came a bottle of Cape Dreams 2007 Pinotage, I shuttered – Pinotage is not a favourite, but I had already committed to giving it a try, and I was already not to like it. Which is why this wine came as such a surprise. The nose, upon first whiff, was loaded with pencil shavings; then with a little aeration it moved into chocolate, mocha and black raspberry. Palate-wise it was even better, showing none of the usually tarry-leather dominant flavours this type of wine exhibits; instead it was clean with coffee, mocha, black raspberry fruit, just the merest hint of leather and lots of pretty red berries mid-palate to the finish … elegant, lovely and very impressive – this is how Pinotage should be made (****½).
With the surprise of the Pinotage still lingering in our mouths Eleanor opened one more bottle, same winery but this time it was their 2008 Cabernet. Nice, smooth and quaffable, but not nearly as impressive as that Pinotage. Another wine I await to hear the price on to find out just how ‘really impressive’ it is.
Thanks to Eleanor for inviting me to this interesting tasting.
She kicked off the tasting with a Cava (Spanish sparkling) that was absolutely to die for, La Cruss Et D’or Brut Reserva – non-vintage Premium Limited Edition. The wine had fruity smells of fresh lemon and citrus along with sweet apple and a lovely finish – crisp, toasty and bready through the mid-palate ending with crisp mac apple squeezed with a hint of lemon on the finish (****½). She had yet to find out the price, but this will be a killer buy if it comes to our shores between $12 and $15 … though the words “Premium Limited Edition” scare me.
After such an illustrious start I would have to say it would have been hard to top it, and as expected the next four wines (all reds) did not measure up to that incredible starter. The best of which was a Bernat Oller 2006 Merlot with its violets, black and red fruit mix along with a touch of vanilla – it was a nice Merlot, and kind of a curiosity because you don’t see a lot of straight Merlot from Spain – but this one won’t set the world on fire, especially at it’s price (somewhere north of $25). I looked over at my glass of Cava, which was still happily bubbling away; I washed the reds down with what was left in the glass, still tasty.
I put my coat on ready to leave when Eleanor brought out a surprise wine, she asked if I minded giving my opinion on a new South African winery she was considering representing (she is, after all, the queen of South African wines, so I should have known I was not going to get away without tasting at least one). I never say no to sip on something new, so of course I said yes. Out came a bottle of Cape Dreams 2007 Pinotage, I shuttered – Pinotage is not a favourite, but I had already committed to giving it a try, and I was already not to like it. Which is why this wine came as such a surprise. The nose, upon first whiff, was loaded with pencil shavings; then with a little aeration it moved into chocolate, mocha and black raspberry. Palate-wise it was even better, showing none of the usually tarry-leather dominant flavours this type of wine exhibits; instead it was clean with coffee, mocha, black raspberry fruit, just the merest hint of leather and lots of pretty red berries mid-palate to the finish … elegant, lovely and very impressive – this is how Pinotage should be made (****½).
With the surprise of the Pinotage still lingering in our mouths Eleanor opened one more bottle, same winery but this time it was their 2008 Cabernet. Nice, smooth and quaffable, but not nearly as impressive as that Pinotage. Another wine I await to hear the price on to find out just how ‘really impressive’ it is.
Thanks to Eleanor for inviting me to this interesting tasting.
Sunday, March 29, 2009
Report from ... Bokke Tasting - March 25, 2009
At a minimalist art gallery in downtown Toronto we assembled for the second time in almost six weeks to try more offerings from Eleanor Cosman and her Bokke wine agency … if you missed my last Bokke article check it out here. Bokke is the agency that brings in the Goulart wines, one of which I found quite impressive last time out. During a recent visit to the U.S. I made the discovery that their labeling for the U.S. is a little flashier than our more conservative packaging here in Canada and with different names for the same wine - check up my review of the "Classico” Malbec.
Today's tasting focused on nine wines, most, as expected, from South Africa. The exceptions were the Goulart wines from Argentina and an excellent Pinot Noir from New Zealand: Coney Wines Pizzicato Pinot Noir 2006 ($38.00) - a rich beautiful nose loaded with cinnamon, vanilla, black and sour cherries; the palate showed lots of sour cherry; a touch of spice and cranberry on the finish … it also had a nice seam of acidity running through it.
Wines from South Africa …
There were three from a winery called Viljoensdrift (Fill-Junes-Drift) with the name River Grandeur emblazoned across the middle of the label. Of these three the 2007 Shiraz ($21.80) showed very well with lots of pepper and dark fruit and a spicy smooth finish - not jammy in the least.
A Chenin Blanc (2008) from Mont Destin ($18.45) caught my eye: a nice tropical, grassy and pineapple nose which followed onto the palate and lingered a long time on the tongue.
The 2006 Klein Genot Black Swan Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon/Franc 50/50 blend ($29.50) had a soft, almost imperceptible nose, but what it lacked on the snoot it gained between the lips: spicy-black fruit, vanilla, tobacco, herbs and black cherries - very nice.
But my wow wine of the tasting goes to Lammershoek for their 2006 Zinfandel-Syrah ($20.50), a blend of 75% Zin, 20% Syrah, and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon (5%). This one had everything you’d want from Zin, plus the kick of Syrah, and smoothness of a Cab. Plum, cherry, vanilla and a touch of spice on the nose; in the mouth a plethora of flavours: vanilla, cinnamon, red fruit, cherry, some tannins - yet not too aggressive, then there was the drying sensation on the tongue just before it became all peppery on the finish … exciting and tasty all at the same time.
Today's tasting focused on nine wines, most, as expected, from South Africa. The exceptions were the Goulart wines from Argentina and an excellent Pinot Noir from New Zealand: Coney Wines Pizzicato Pinot Noir 2006 ($38.00) - a rich beautiful nose loaded with cinnamon, vanilla, black and sour cherries; the palate showed lots of sour cherry; a touch of spice and cranberry on the finish … it also had a nice seam of acidity running through it.
Wines from South Africa …
There were three from a winery called Viljoensdrift (Fill-Junes-Drift) with the name River Grandeur emblazoned across the middle of the label. Of these three the 2007 Shiraz ($21.80) showed very well with lots of pepper and dark fruit and a spicy smooth finish - not jammy in the least.
A Chenin Blanc (2008) from Mont Destin ($18.45) caught my eye: a nice tropical, grassy and pineapple nose which followed onto the palate and lingered a long time on the tongue.
The 2006 Klein Genot Black Swan Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon/Franc 50/50 blend ($29.50) had a soft, almost imperceptible nose, but what it lacked on the snoot it gained between the lips: spicy-black fruit, vanilla, tobacco, herbs and black cherries - very nice.
But my wow wine of the tasting goes to Lammershoek for their 2006 Zinfandel-Syrah ($20.50), a blend of 75% Zin, 20% Syrah, and a touch of Cabernet Sauvignon (5%). This one had everything you’d want from Zin, plus the kick of Syrah, and smoothness of a Cab. Plum, cherry, vanilla and a touch of spice on the nose; in the mouth a plethora of flavours: vanilla, cinnamon, red fruit, cherry, some tannins - yet not too aggressive, then there was the drying sensation on the tongue just before it became all peppery on the finish … exciting and tasty all at the same time.
Report from ... PMA Canada Chairman's Gala - March 24, 2009
Here's how the bi-annual PMA Gala, held at the Toronto Hunt, was described to me: "it's an all out eat-and-drink-athon. Nobody takes notes, you push a glass into the melee, get your pour, suck it back and move on." (obviously not said by PMA employee - or was it?). I decided to go anyway, with pen in hand, determined not to be lumped into those just looking for a free hand out ... I've got work to do. Of course, the title of the event should have given me pause as to dress code; I was the only one there in jeans … so much for being inconspicuous.
Seminar one …
The event kicked off at 3:00 PM with Heinrich Breuer of George Breuer Winery in Germany and a tasting of their Rieslings. Heinrich spoke in good passable English; with the expected German accent, thick as it was he was still very understandable but his though his attempts at humor fell on a dull crowd ...were they just chomping at the bit to try the wines or was he just not funny? You decide:
About his high acidity Riesling: "Our Riesling has high acidity, definitely not for people with stomach problems."
On why his Riesling’s are dry: "Sweetness is used to cover faults and high acidity - it's like a lady, the best ones don't need to use it."
On experimental wines: "Some wines don't turn out like you want, but good vinegar has to be made too."
And on climate change: "While my father told me that 1 in 7 vintages is a good one; I tell my daughter that 1 in 7 vintages is a bad one."
Heinrich took the assembled crowd, of no more than 50 people, through a brief history of the Riesling grape (first recorded mention is about 500 years ago); Germany's place in the Riesling-world (Germany produces 60% of the world's Riesling); other regions of who make fine Rieslings (in his opinion - Alsace and Austria); promised that the competition from other regions that are springing up and making good Riesling (like Canada) will only make them work harder to make better wines; and that the Rheingau (where his wines are made) is planted to 80% Riesling - and now 15% Pinot Noir. He also told us that his oldest vines are approximately 50 years old - he'd like older vines (“in 30-years they will be 80 years old”) but he claimed that a combination of phylloxera and a re-arranging of the vineyard were the current determining factors of their age … I would have to assume, although not mentioned, part of that rearranging came about because of bombs during World War II - but I'm just guessing here.
The real proof of the Riesling-pudding, so to speak, was in the tasting - and these were some awesome Rieslings. We tried a flight of single vineyard 2007’s, which Heinrich gushed about saying, "it was a great vintage". The stand out here was the Terra Montosa (translated as: mountainous field), which they make only 2 – 4 thousand bottles per year; a great mineral driven wine with good fruit, high acidity and an incredibly long finish. Heinrich then mentioned the potential longevity of these great wines and proceeded to pour a 2001, 1997 and 1989. The standout here was the 1997 Montosa Charta Rheingau Riesling … it tasted younger and fresher than the 2001, had lots of fruit, and a mead-like quality with dried peaches and pears; hints of petrol added to the flavour without overwhelming … and it all ended with an amazing lips smacking finish that demanded another sip be taken … then another … and another - soon my glass was empty and I hadn't spit a drop. This wine really spoke to, and helped to emphasize, his point about the quality and longevity of his wines.
Seminar Two …
I wish I could say that the South African seminar was just as interesting and entertaining, but alas I cannot. It was about Cape Legends sponsored by Distell – principals of which I have had the pleasure of dining with and enjoyed their stories and company. The speaker was Berenice Barker - who was quick to point out that the views expressed were her own and not those of her company – she was amusing enough as a speaker but I felt it was a sales pitch more than an informative seminar. She totally lost my interest when she compared the Lomond 2008 Sauvignon Blanc to ones from the Loire (in France), she said they were alike; I totally disagreed. The wine was had big palate cleansing acidity, mammoth grapefruit and grassyness on the nose and palate, while the finish was green and grassy … this was new world Savvy B all the way, without even the merest hint of Loire-finesse. I can see why this wine wins awards all over the world, but the comparison with Loire Sauvignon Blanc stops at the grape variety. The other good wine poured was the Tukula 2006 Sangiovese, lots of spices and herbs here, while the red fruit jumped right out of the glass at you and ended with a spicy-plumy fruit sensation that has hints of wood and vanilla … there may have been a little hollowness in the mid-palate but all-in-all this was a good wine.
Top Ten of the Tasting … (in no particular order)
Osborne Pedro Ximenez 1827 Sherry ($17.95 – Vintages) ... this is always a favorite, I have a few bottles and my cellar – a beautiful sweetie that has candied almonds and raisin pie flavours. (Spain)
Nugan Estate Manuka Grove Durif 2007 ($29.95 – Consignment) ... known also as Petite Sirah this wine possesses port-like nuances of cherry and spice without the sweetness; very smooth, very tasty. (Australia)
Nino Negri “Sfursat 5 Stelle” di Valtellina 2005 ($69.95 – Consignment) ... fun to ask for this by name "Stelle"- aside from that silliness this one’s got a wonderful cherry nose with dried cherry and herb flavours. (Italy)
Korta 2008 Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay/Viognier ($12.95 – Consignment) … I was very impressed with Korta wines, especially for their value - you'll see why in a bit; this one was pleasantly fruity with a touch of acidity - great summer wine that won’t break the bank. (Chile)
Villa Maria 2008 Reserve Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc ($35.95 – Consignment) … lots of citrus/grapefruit, great grassy-gooseberry flavors with nice acidity that plays off the big fruit sweetness and leads to a long finish. (New Zealand)
Korta 2007 Barrel Selection Reserve Syrah ($14.95 – Consignment) … this is my value wine of the show - first and foremost, it tastes like it should be selling at double the price, but don't tell PMA that, I’ve ordered a case. Peppery, red berry and dark fruit all play on the tongue without being all heavy and jammy; this really is Syrah, not a Shiraz. (Chile)
Andretti 2006 Napa Valley Primitivo/Zinfandel ($44.95 – Consignment) … the nose is all plumy and cherry, as fully expected from this double Zinfandel - but it's the kick-ass spice and whooping acidity that makes this wine truly unique. (USA – California)
Collazzi Toscana 2006 ($46.95 – Consignment) … Lamberto Frescobaldi is very proud of this wine, he told me so himself - he also said this was a sneak peak because it is not yet available in the market; an amazing wine that's more Bordeaux than Italy with the three major French grapes at its helm. Herbs and spice take over the nose; dried fruit and berries in the mouth, while spicy-licorice notes also grace the palate … smooth tannins round this one off nicely and it has a sip-all-day quality to it. Superb. (Italy)
Alianca Quinta Dos Quatro Ventos Reserva 2006 ($26.95 – Consignment) ... plum, chocolate and black fruit are all over this one; smooth and delicious. (Portugal)
Bodegas Norton Perdriel Single Vineyard 2005 ($64.95 – Consignment) ... a Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot blend aged 16 months in 100% new French barrels. This one's juicy with blackberries and sweet cherries - there's also hints of mint and menthol on the nose; barreling is hardly noticeable with all that fruit. (Argentina)
Beer …
I met Neil Sharp from Innis & Gunn, a Scottish beer company that oak ages their beers. The Blonde ($3.45) is a refreshing and lightly oaked beer that has a little kick to it … but the star was the special Canadian Cask Scottish Oak Aged beer ($4.95), which was made to celebrate Canada Day 2009, in honour of how well their beers have been received here. Former Canadian whisky barrels are used for the aging the beer (71 days) ... the result is a full bodied toffee laden beer that tastes slightly sweet and downright delicious, eh! The lingering finish is perfect for those who enjoy sipping, rather than guzzling there beers, and sipping will definitely be in order here, the 7.1% alcohol could pose a problem otherwise, if you have too many.
Food …
As for the nibblies and all you can eat munchies ... I’m not much of a foodie so most of the cheese, shrimp, salmon, beef, lamb, pork loin, etc. were lost on me - but I have to admit I did get my fill of some of the most amazing ribs I've had in a longtime ... and they went well with that Canadian Cask beer.
Seminar one …
The event kicked off at 3:00 PM with Heinrich Breuer of George Breuer Winery in Germany and a tasting of their Rieslings. Heinrich spoke in good passable English; with the expected German accent, thick as it was he was still very understandable but his though his attempts at humor fell on a dull crowd ...were they just chomping at the bit to try the wines or was he just not funny? You decide:
About his high acidity Riesling: "Our Riesling has high acidity, definitely not for people with stomach problems."
On why his Riesling’s are dry: "Sweetness is used to cover faults and high acidity - it's like a lady, the best ones don't need to use it."
On experimental wines: "Some wines don't turn out like you want, but good vinegar has to be made too."
And on climate change: "While my father told me that 1 in 7 vintages is a good one; I tell my daughter that 1 in 7 vintages is a bad one."
Heinrich took the assembled crowd, of no more than 50 people, through a brief history of the Riesling grape (first recorded mention is about 500 years ago); Germany's place in the Riesling-world (Germany produces 60% of the world's Riesling); other regions of who make fine Rieslings (in his opinion - Alsace and Austria); promised that the competition from other regions that are springing up and making good Riesling (like Canada) will only make them work harder to make better wines; and that the Rheingau (where his wines are made) is planted to 80% Riesling - and now 15% Pinot Noir. He also told us that his oldest vines are approximately 50 years old - he'd like older vines (“in 30-years they will be 80 years old”) but he claimed that a combination of phylloxera and a re-arranging of the vineyard were the current determining factors of their age … I would have to assume, although not mentioned, part of that rearranging came about because of bombs during World War II - but I'm just guessing here.
The real proof of the Riesling-pudding, so to speak, was in the tasting - and these were some awesome Rieslings. We tried a flight of single vineyard 2007’s, which Heinrich gushed about saying, "it was a great vintage". The stand out here was the Terra Montosa (translated as: mountainous field), which they make only 2 – 4 thousand bottles per year; a great mineral driven wine with good fruit, high acidity and an incredibly long finish. Heinrich then mentioned the potential longevity of these great wines and proceeded to pour a 2001, 1997 and 1989. The standout here was the 1997 Montosa Charta Rheingau Riesling … it tasted younger and fresher than the 2001, had lots of fruit, and a mead-like quality with dried peaches and pears; hints of petrol added to the flavour without overwhelming … and it all ended with an amazing lips smacking finish that demanded another sip be taken … then another … and another - soon my glass was empty and I hadn't spit a drop. This wine really spoke to, and helped to emphasize, his point about the quality and longevity of his wines.
Seminar Two …
I wish I could say that the South African seminar was just as interesting and entertaining, but alas I cannot. It was about Cape Legends sponsored by Distell – principals of which I have had the pleasure of dining with and enjoyed their stories and company. The speaker was Berenice Barker - who was quick to point out that the views expressed were her own and not those of her company – she was amusing enough as a speaker but I felt it was a sales pitch more than an informative seminar. She totally lost my interest when she compared the Lomond 2008 Sauvignon Blanc to ones from the Loire (in France), she said they were alike; I totally disagreed. The wine was had big palate cleansing acidity, mammoth grapefruit and grassyness on the nose and palate, while the finish was green and grassy … this was new world Savvy B all the way, without even the merest hint of Loire-finesse. I can see why this wine wins awards all over the world, but the comparison with Loire Sauvignon Blanc stops at the grape variety. The other good wine poured was the Tukula 2006 Sangiovese, lots of spices and herbs here, while the red fruit jumped right out of the glass at you and ended with a spicy-plumy fruit sensation that has hints of wood and vanilla … there may have been a little hollowness in the mid-palate but all-in-all this was a good wine.
Top Ten of the Tasting … (in no particular order)
Osborne Pedro Ximenez 1827 Sherry ($17.95 – Vintages) ... this is always a favorite, I have a few bottles and my cellar – a beautiful sweetie that has candied almonds and raisin pie flavours. (Spain)
Nugan Estate Manuka Grove Durif 2007 ($29.95 – Consignment) ... known also as Petite Sirah this wine possesses port-like nuances of cherry and spice without the sweetness; very smooth, very tasty. (Australia)
Nino Negri “Sfursat 5 Stelle” di Valtellina 2005 ($69.95 – Consignment) ... fun to ask for this by name "Stelle"- aside from that silliness this one’s got a wonderful cherry nose with dried cherry and herb flavours. (Italy)
Korta 2008 Sauvignon Blanc/Chardonnay/Viognier ($12.95 – Consignment) … I was very impressed with Korta wines, especially for their value - you'll see why in a bit; this one was pleasantly fruity with a touch of acidity - great summer wine that won’t break the bank. (Chile)
Villa Maria 2008 Reserve Clifford Bay Sauvignon Blanc ($35.95 – Consignment) … lots of citrus/grapefruit, great grassy-gooseberry flavors with nice acidity that plays off the big fruit sweetness and leads to a long finish. (New Zealand)
Korta 2007 Barrel Selection Reserve Syrah ($14.95 – Consignment) … this is my value wine of the show - first and foremost, it tastes like it should be selling at double the price, but don't tell PMA that, I’ve ordered a case. Peppery, red berry and dark fruit all play on the tongue without being all heavy and jammy; this really is Syrah, not a Shiraz. (Chile)
Andretti 2006 Napa Valley Primitivo/Zinfandel ($44.95 – Consignment) … the nose is all plumy and cherry, as fully expected from this double Zinfandel - but it's the kick-ass spice and whooping acidity that makes this wine truly unique. (USA – California)
Collazzi Toscana 2006 ($46.95 – Consignment) … Lamberto Frescobaldi is very proud of this wine, he told me so himself - he also said this was a sneak peak because it is not yet available in the market; an amazing wine that's more Bordeaux than Italy with the three major French grapes at its helm. Herbs and spice take over the nose; dried fruit and berries in the mouth, while spicy-licorice notes also grace the palate … smooth tannins round this one off nicely and it has a sip-all-day quality to it. Superb. (Italy)
Alianca Quinta Dos Quatro Ventos Reserva 2006 ($26.95 – Consignment) ... plum, chocolate and black fruit are all over this one; smooth and delicious. (Portugal)
Bodegas Norton Perdriel Single Vineyard 2005 ($64.95 – Consignment) ... a Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot blend aged 16 months in 100% new French barrels. This one's juicy with blackberries and sweet cherries - there's also hints of mint and menthol on the nose; barreling is hardly noticeable with all that fruit. (Argentina)
Beer …
I met Neil Sharp from Innis & Gunn, a Scottish beer company that oak ages their beers. The Blonde ($3.45) is a refreshing and lightly oaked beer that has a little kick to it … but the star was the special Canadian Cask Scottish Oak Aged beer ($4.95), which was made to celebrate Canada Day 2009, in honour of how well their beers have been received here. Former Canadian whisky barrels are used for the aging the beer (71 days) ... the result is a full bodied toffee laden beer that tastes slightly sweet and downright delicious, eh! The lingering finish is perfect for those who enjoy sipping, rather than guzzling there beers, and sipping will definitely be in order here, the 7.1% alcohol could pose a problem otherwise, if you have too many.
Food …
As for the nibblies and all you can eat munchies ... I’m not much of a foodie so most of the cheese, shrimp, salmon, beef, lamb, pork loin, etc. were lost on me - but I have to admit I did get my fill of some of the most amazing ribs I've had in a longtime ... and they went well with that Canadian Cask beer.
Friday, December 26, 2008
Drinking with Dave - Part 1 ... December 26, 2008
Dave is a wine merchant in Michigan (at Champane‘s Wine Cellars in Warren), for the record I do not owe him money, he is not my bookie, he does not own a piece of anything I am involved with nor do I own a piece of his life. We do not owe each other a favour, our daughter’s don’t go to the same school, our wives are not in a bridge club together. His mom does not know my mom, his dad was not in the French Foreign Legion with my pop - nor in any other legion, gang, group or club. We are not related in any way and have no other reason to get together other than the fact that we each have a love for wine; Dave reads my newsletter (and I his email blasts from Champane’s). Over the past year he has invited me down a few times to taste wines with him; this year I was finally down long enough to take advantage of his hospitality.
December 26, 2008 … While most off my fellow countrymen are off taking advantage of Boxing Day deals, I find myself visiting Dave Burzynski at Champane’s Wine Cellars in Michigan (they don’t have Boxing Day down here … odd). I like visiting Dave cause he shows me wines that we can’t get over the border (or don’t get), at prices I know would be half of what we would pay. He greets me warmly and comments, “thanks for forwarding me your newsletters, I like reading your stuff,” he finishes his greeting with a slight lament, “but it’s all Canadian, and we don’t get that much stuff from you guys down here.” I respond with, “if it’s international you’re after check out my Vintages release report or the On the Road with the Grape Guy section - but what I should really do is bring down some Ontario stuff so you know what you’re missing.”
The niceties out of the way Dave leads me around the store like an obedient puppy dog, pointing out his favourite bottles of this and that, a 1999 Merlot ($12.99), 2006 Zinfandels, a Cabernet Sauvignon from Rock & Vine, a Miser-ly red for a mere $7.99 that’s been deemed “fantastic” by many of his regulars and various other treats all for under $15 ... my cart fills fast. After a dozen or so recommendations I pick six or seven to make up the case I will purchase.
It’s time to taste. Dave takes me back to his “office”. “When I got it it was just four walls,” he tells me, “I added a little of this and a little of that along the way and …” he trails off. A tasting bar covers the back half of the room along with proper bottle storage racks. The bar is glass covered and underneath are a plethora of labels. The room is cold, but a good temperature for wine. Today Dave pours us each a glass of Slaley Hunting Family 2003 Pinotage from South Africa that was opened on Wednesday (it is Friday). Dave confirms that when it was opened it did have that typical South Africa smell, but some 2 days later this wine is delicious and spicy with gobs of white pepper on the nose. There is some residual “South Africa stink”, but it is in the background on both the nose and palate; what shows most right now is the blackberries and cassis - and of course the white pepper. Dave confides in me that this bottle isn’t even in the marketplace right now, but he is hopeful of having it on his shelf sometime in the early part of the New Year, and for a very reasonable $12.99.
We’ll be checking back with Dave next week to see what other interesting bottles he has open, if not then we‘ll surely be back later in the year to see what other kinds of finds he can show me.
December 26, 2008 … While most off my fellow countrymen are off taking advantage of Boxing Day deals, I find myself visiting Dave Burzynski at Champane’s Wine Cellars in Michigan (they don’t have Boxing Day down here … odd). I like visiting Dave cause he shows me wines that we can’t get over the border (or don’t get), at prices I know would be half of what we would pay. He greets me warmly and comments, “thanks for forwarding me your newsletters, I like reading your stuff,” he finishes his greeting with a slight lament, “but it’s all Canadian, and we don’t get that much stuff from you guys down here.” I respond with, “if it’s international you’re after check out my Vintages release report or the On the Road with the Grape Guy section - but what I should really do is bring down some Ontario stuff so you know what you’re missing.”
The niceties out of the way Dave leads me around the store like an obedient puppy dog, pointing out his favourite bottles of this and that, a 1999 Merlot ($12.99), 2006 Zinfandels, a Cabernet Sauvignon from Rock & Vine, a Miser-ly red for a mere $7.99 that’s been deemed “fantastic” by many of his regulars and various other treats all for under $15 ... my cart fills fast. After a dozen or so recommendations I pick six or seven to make up the case I will purchase.
It’s time to taste. Dave takes me back to his “office”. “When I got it it was just four walls,” he tells me, “I added a little of this and a little of that along the way and …” he trails off. A tasting bar covers the back half of the room along with proper bottle storage racks. The bar is glass covered and underneath are a plethora of labels. The room is cold, but a good temperature for wine. Today Dave pours us each a glass of Slaley Hunting Family 2003 Pinotage from South Africa that was opened on Wednesday (it is Friday). Dave confirms that when it was opened it did have that typical South Africa smell, but some 2 days later this wine is delicious and spicy with gobs of white pepper on the nose. There is some residual “South Africa stink”, but it is in the background on both the nose and palate; what shows most right now is the blackberries and cassis - and of course the white pepper. Dave confides in me that this bottle isn’t even in the marketplace right now, but he is hopeful of having it on his shelf sometime in the early part of the New Year, and for a very reasonable $12.99.
We’ll be checking back with Dave next week to see what other interesting bottles he has open, if not then we‘ll surely be back later in the year to see what other kinds of finds he can show me.
Sunday, October 19, 2008
Report from ... Durbanville Hills Dinner and Tasting - October 08, 2008
Dinner with a bunch of straight talking guys - that was what this Durbanville Hills dinner turned into. Someone mentioned, as we began the evening, that agents and women would help to keep us in line, but there were none to be seen so this became a no-holds-barred, drag-‘em-out, no-comments-verboten dinner. Meeting with winemaker Martin Moore, managing director Albert Gerber, Distell ambassador to Canada Deveron Wilcock, and fellow wine writer Dean Tudor, this evening turned into quite the "bag of fun”, which is just one of the phrases I picked up from this ultra-gregarious South African. (I might mention others throughout this review – but you must know from the outset, this is the kind of guy you’d enjoy going out for a beer with, he’s just “one of those guys”. Martin has been with Durbanville Hills since the beginning (1998), but his past has taken him through KWV and into Bordeaux.
Durbanville Hills is a joint venture between 8 producers and Distell (South Africa's version of Constellation) with five percent of the company set aside as a workers' trust. The winery is named after, and located in, the second oldest wine region in South Africa - established around 1702 (Constantia is the oldest, established in 1695) and is located only 12km from the sea. All their wine is grown, bottled and produced using the eight producers’ grapes, thus making the wine an “estate” product. But, only five percent of the grapes go into the thirteen wines they produce ... the other 95 percent get sold off to Distell for their other brands, that’s because they only want to make premium wines of very high quality – and not get the reputation as a jug wine producer.
Durbanville Hills sells more white wines that reds, 65 percent to 35 percent, but grow more red grapes than white, 60% / 40%. “We keep about 30 percent of the reds as opposed to 80 percent of our whites," says Martin, "we just don't need all the reds we grow ... the bulk we’re selling off is very high quality red, we just can't use it all." Durbanville Hills makes eight red wines to only five whites. The wines come in three distinct lines: the entry level "Hills” line, the reserve "Rhinofield" line (named after one of only eight floral kingdoms left in the world – the winery contributes to its preservation), and a single vineyard line (Biesjes Craal - white, Luipaardsberg and Caapmans – red) - this line is unique in its selection process - the name will always remain the same, but the vineyard that the fruit comes from is selected annually after harvest, fermentation, and aging – only then can the best be determined and the growers/producer is then issued a bonus. Only one vineyard is selected, and in the case of the Cabernet-Merlot blend, a different vineyard for each component. The specific vineyard is never mentioned on the label.
I can give you history and winemaking method up the ying-yang, but for those wondering how the wines taste, here's what you've been waiting for:
Durbanville Hills 2007 Sauvignon Blanc - $11.95 (available at the LCBO)
Nice citrus and grassy notes when cold, as it warms tropical fragrances emerge ... the palate follows the same formula with a creaminess in the mouth that's derived from two to four months of lee's contact.
Rhinofield 2007 Chardonnay - $16.00 (not at the LCBO)
This 50/50 unoaked/barrel fermented wine does not go through (“deliberate”) malolactic fermentation so that it keeps its crispness and good acidity ... the aging is nine months in barrel and/or on lees, depending on which component half you are. The smell is ripe with toasted vanilla, popcorn, cloves and spice. There’s also a citrus that Martin called "orange mold” or "forgotten in the refrigerator orange". Tastes follow with vanilla oak, good acidity and a bit of orangy-ness (minus the mold) - there's also a spicy character that appears as it warms.
Durbanville Hills 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon - $11.95 (not at the LCBO)
There's a hint of what I call "typical South Africa smell" on the nose, but it mixes nicely with the fruit, currants and vanilla. Mouth-wise the “typical” disappears, leaving behind blackberries, cedar-vanilla, and spice - while aeration really pulls out the fruit, making it juicy and almost sweet on the palate, there also a little white pepper that develops around those berries ... quite yummy.
Rhinofield 2006 Merlot - $16.00 (not at the LCBO)
Eighteen months in new French oak and ten percent Hungarian oak. Martin's philosophy, "pick the best blocks, put it in the best wood." Lovely smooth mouthfeel black fruit, red berry, juicy flavors, silky tannins and a bit of chocolate to top it off.
A few choice quotes from the evening:
When asked if Martin plans to make Pinot Noir he responded: "If I wanted trouble I’d buy an Italian car." After the laughter subsided he explained, "if I can't make a good wine consistently I don't want to make it all - I have a friend who grows Pinot and he admits he makes a really good one every 8 years or so."
When asked about his favorite wine, Martin answered, "this may seem like I’m pandering to my audience because of where I am, but it’s Canadian Icewine, that stuff is bloody brilliant, like nothing else made. I know they're expensive, but they should be expensive, because they're like nothing else."
Durbanville Hills is a joint venture between 8 producers and Distell (South Africa's version of Constellation) with five percent of the company set aside as a workers' trust. The winery is named after, and located in, the second oldest wine region in South Africa - established around 1702 (Constantia is the oldest, established in 1695) and is located only 12km from the sea. All their wine is grown, bottled and produced using the eight producers’ grapes, thus making the wine an “estate” product. But, only five percent of the grapes go into the thirteen wines they produce ... the other 95 percent get sold off to Distell for their other brands, that’s because they only want to make premium wines of very high quality – and not get the reputation as a jug wine producer.
Durbanville Hills sells more white wines that reds, 65 percent to 35 percent, but grow more red grapes than white, 60% / 40%. “We keep about 30 percent of the reds as opposed to 80 percent of our whites," says Martin, "we just don't need all the reds we grow ... the bulk we’re selling off is very high quality red, we just can't use it all." Durbanville Hills makes eight red wines to only five whites. The wines come in three distinct lines: the entry level "Hills” line, the reserve "Rhinofield" line (named after one of only eight floral kingdoms left in the world – the winery contributes to its preservation), and a single vineyard line (Biesjes Craal - white, Luipaardsberg and Caapmans – red) - this line is unique in its selection process - the name will always remain the same, but the vineyard that the fruit comes from is selected annually after harvest, fermentation, and aging – only then can the best be determined and the growers/producer is then issued a bonus. Only one vineyard is selected, and in the case of the Cabernet-Merlot blend, a different vineyard for each component. The specific vineyard is never mentioned on the label.
I can give you history and winemaking method up the ying-yang, but for those wondering how the wines taste, here's what you've been waiting for:
Durbanville Hills 2007 Sauvignon Blanc - $11.95 (available at the LCBO)
Nice citrus and grassy notes when cold, as it warms tropical fragrances emerge ... the palate follows the same formula with a creaminess in the mouth that's derived from two to four months of lee's contact.
Rhinofield 2007 Chardonnay - $16.00 (not at the LCBO)
This 50/50 unoaked/barrel fermented wine does not go through (“deliberate”) malolactic fermentation so that it keeps its crispness and good acidity ... the aging is nine months in barrel and/or on lees, depending on which component half you are. The smell is ripe with toasted vanilla, popcorn, cloves and spice. There’s also a citrus that Martin called "orange mold” or "forgotten in the refrigerator orange". Tastes follow with vanilla oak, good acidity and a bit of orangy-ness (minus the mold) - there's also a spicy character that appears as it warms.
Durbanville Hills 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon - $11.95 (not at the LCBO)
There's a hint of what I call "typical South Africa smell" on the nose, but it mixes nicely with the fruit, currants and vanilla. Mouth-wise the “typical” disappears, leaving behind blackberries, cedar-vanilla, and spice - while aeration really pulls out the fruit, making it juicy and almost sweet on the palate, there also a little white pepper that develops around those berries ... quite yummy.
Rhinofield 2006 Merlot - $16.00 (not at the LCBO)
Eighteen months in new French oak and ten percent Hungarian oak. Martin's philosophy, "pick the best blocks, put it in the best wood." Lovely smooth mouthfeel black fruit, red berry, juicy flavors, silky tannins and a bit of chocolate to top it off.
A few choice quotes from the evening:
When asked if Martin plans to make Pinot Noir he responded: "If I wanted trouble I’d buy an Italian car." After the laughter subsided he explained, "if I can't make a good wine consistently I don't want to make it all - I have a friend who grows Pinot and he admits he makes a really good one every 8 years or so."
When asked about his favorite wine, Martin answered, "this may seem like I’m pandering to my audience because of where I am, but it’s Canadian Icewine, that stuff is bloody brilliant, like nothing else made. I know they're expensive, but they should be expensive, because they're like nothing else."
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Report from ... Nederburg Dinner - June 12, 2008
You’ve undoubtedly seen their name on a bottle of wine in the South Africa section of your local liquor store – that’s because they are not a small company by any stretch of the imagination. They are owned by Distell, the 10th largest wine marketers in the world with a 45% market share in South Africa alone, and they are the 2nd biggest producer of cider in the world. They produce just under 20 million cases of wine per year (Distell). Nederburg is South Africa’s largest selling super premium brand and the most award-winning winery in South Africa. The property was settled in 1791, but the first official Nederburg wine didn’t flow out the cellar door until 1934.
I joined head winemaker Linley Schultz and Devron Wilcock (Distell USA) for dinner on a Thursday night at Veritas (on King Street) to discuss their award winning wines, taste and pair them up with a variety of foods.
Not being much of a foodie – I leave that up to my colleague and partner in wine crimes (on this night anyway) Dean Tudor – who’s notes about the evening’s food you can see on his blog under the June 12 heading. I’m all about the wines and tonight we tried 6 wines. 3 from the Winemaster’s Reserve Collection: Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon (all available on the general list at the LCBO) and the same three varieties from the Manor House Collection – a more limited reserve selection (the Shiraz and Cab will be available at Vintages August 2, 2008).
Across the board Nederburg offers good wines at great value, the Winemaster’s Reserve line all fall under $13 and the Manor House wines are all priced at $16.95. Let’s take a look at where to best put your money.
Sauvignon Blanc …
Considering you can’t get the Manor House version here in Ontario (unless you go the private order route), you’re best value is the $11.95 Winemaster’s Reserve, side by side they are very similar with their grassy, lemony aromas and grassy-tropical fruit flavours, but the Winemaster’s crisp finish beats out the length of finish and acidity of the Manor House, especially for the $12 price tag.
Shiraz …
This one’s a no-brainer, you’ll have to wait until August to pick up the Manor House 2006 Shiraz, but considering two prestigious wine competitions (International Wine & Spirits Competition and Syrah du Monde) have honoured Nederburg’s Manor House Shiraz with gold medals. Black licorice, black fruit and black pepper accost the nose, while in the mouth it’s smooth, easy sipping, with a palate of black (pepper and fruit) – there’s just more elegance and length in this bottle and for a few dollars more (not the Clint Eastwood six gun kind) it’s worth picking up. Don’t get me wrong, the Winemaster’s is good value, but this one’s better.
Cabernet Sauvignon …
This one’s a toss up. Very little difference in flavours or smells … both had black fruit, chocolate and a sweet mid-palate. Difference is berry selection and longevity. So for drink-now buy the $12.95 Winemaster’s, if you’re wanting to hold onto this wine for a few years (5-8) spend the extra $4 in August and get the Manor House – either way you can’t go wrong … in fact, you’ll have some for now and some for later, and that’s never a bad thing.
I joined head winemaker Linley Schultz and Devron Wilcock (Distell USA) for dinner on a Thursday night at Veritas (on King Street) to discuss their award winning wines, taste and pair them up with a variety of foods.
Not being much of a foodie – I leave that up to my colleague and partner in wine crimes (on this night anyway) Dean Tudor – who’s notes about the evening’s food you can see on his blog under the June 12 heading. I’m all about the wines and tonight we tried 6 wines. 3 from the Winemaster’s Reserve Collection: Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon (all available on the general list at the LCBO) and the same three varieties from the Manor House Collection – a more limited reserve selection (the Shiraz and Cab will be available at Vintages August 2, 2008).
Across the board Nederburg offers good wines at great value, the Winemaster’s Reserve line all fall under $13 and the Manor House wines are all priced at $16.95. Let’s take a look at where to best put your money.
Sauvignon Blanc …
Considering you can’t get the Manor House version here in Ontario (unless you go the private order route), you’re best value is the $11.95 Winemaster’s Reserve, side by side they are very similar with their grassy, lemony aromas and grassy-tropical fruit flavours, but the Winemaster’s crisp finish beats out the length of finish and acidity of the Manor House, especially for the $12 price tag.
Shiraz …
This one’s a no-brainer, you’ll have to wait until August to pick up the Manor House 2006 Shiraz, but considering two prestigious wine competitions (International Wine & Spirits Competition and Syrah du Monde) have honoured Nederburg’s Manor House Shiraz with gold medals. Black licorice, black fruit and black pepper accost the nose, while in the mouth it’s smooth, easy sipping, with a palate of black (pepper and fruit) – there’s just more elegance and length in this bottle and for a few dollars more (not the Clint Eastwood six gun kind) it’s worth picking up. Don’t get me wrong, the Winemaster’s is good value, but this one’s better.
Cabernet Sauvignon …
This one’s a toss up. Very little difference in flavours or smells … both had black fruit, chocolate and a sweet mid-palate. Difference is berry selection and longevity. So for drink-now buy the $12.95 Winemaster’s, if you’re wanting to hold onto this wine for a few years (5-8) spend the extra $4 in August and get the Manor House – either way you can’t go wrong … in fact, you’ll have some for now and some for later, and that’s never a bad thing.
Tuesday, March 11, 2008
Graham Beck Luncheon ... March 4, 2008 - Le Select Bistro
From this luncheon I got three things: a full belly, a tasting of some great South Africa wines, and a press pack as thick as a slice of Wonder bread (the Texas Toast variety). I have been through the press pack so I know all about Graham Beck, but I thought to myself, “What do you, my readers, want to know? What would be of interest to you?” So instead of recopying the press pack here, I thought instead I would tell you what the principles of Graham Beck, seated around the table, were talking about.
1) It has been a very cool year in South Africa and harvest in about 3 weeks behind schedule … this has proven to be a boon for Sauvignon Blanc, which according to Gary Baumgarten, general manger, is tasting beautifully in tank.
2) Graham Beck is a rather large company and has winemakers in charge of specific grapes or brands, so that things don’t get lost and quality isn’t sacrificed, like one who specializes in Sauvignon Blanc and another for their sparkling wine program.
3) For every hectare cultivated, three are under conservation … Graham Beck has a game reserve which is currently 3885 hectares, while surrounding property owners have committed their land to this preservation attitude, and this will soon amount to 6000 hectares around the Roseburg Mountain – they are the only winery in the world that can boast this kind of commitment to the land and the animals upon it. They are proud to be acknowledged as a winery that is ISO-14001 sustainability certified.
4) The Gamekeeper’s Reserve wine was designed for the North American market and 10 cents from every bottle sold goes directly to the game reserve. Disney was the first to acquire this wine for it’s theme parks and it was exclusive to them for the first two years of its release.
5) Graham Beck cultivates 300 hectares (under vine), they are 90% self sufficient, the other 10% they buy from single vineyards in specific regions with specific terroir, and these grapes go into their ultra premium, single vineyard wines.
6) Graham Beck will be celebrating its 25th Anniversary this year.
About the Wines Tasted …
2005 Brut Rosé and NV Brut
These two wines are perfect just the way they are. Someone mentioned the rosé was too light (onion skin coloured) and hard to distinguish as a “rosé” – screw that noise, good wine is good wine no matter what the colour; I’d prefer to drink something that tastes good rather than something that’s the appropriate colour. Broken down, this sparkling Rosé is fruity and easy drinking, made from 80% Pinot and 20% Chardonnay – grapes are harvested and pressed together … a touch sweeter than the Brut this wine was set for launch through Vintages on March 15 ($21.95 - #4085). The Brut is a 50/50 blend of Pinot and Chard, with citrus and yeasty flavours that are crisp with bite and lemon freshness (due February 2009 - $18.95 - #62119).
2007 Sauvignon Blanc (no price or availability given)
This is Graham Beck’s basement Savvy B., but you could have fooled me. Typical and delightful with lots of grapefruit, gooseberry and grassy notes on the nose; with great acidity, crisp refreshing flavours of citrus, full mouthfeel and a lasting grapefruit finish … this was pretty awesome for their first rung Blanc. We were teased by a description of the “Pheasant Run” Sauvignon Blanc – their top tier, limited availability (900 cases), single vineyard offering from 15 year old vines … if you like S.B. get some of either, if you can.
2005 Railroad Red ($12.20 - #665273)
A blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon … this usual Vintages product has been recently added to the general list: smoky, red fruit and vanilla greet the nose, while oaky tannins, red and black fruit, cinnamon and spice play on the palate.
2005 “The Andrew” ($25.50 - #52753)
A Bordeaux blend that has all the ingredients, including the Petit Verdot and Malbec … named after Graham Beck’s second grandchild (the first, named William, also has his own wine – no indication whether the boys like their respective beverages). 15 months in French oak has resulted in a smoky, black fruit, lead pencil and earthy nose, with a matching taste.
2003 Rhona Muscadel ($21.80 - #607812 – 500ml)
This wine, named for Beck’s wife, from the September 29, 2007 Vintages release, proved to be the hit of the tasting. Made from Muscat de Frontignan grapes, this limited wine is made in 1200 case lots every year (roughly 14,000 litres), is fortified to 16% and ranks between a 9 or 10 on the sugar code. A nose that’s full of grapey, pear and orange blossom notes that follow through in the mouth with a little bite, great acidity and fruity as all get out …a life span that’ll see if lasting 10 year plus.
1) It has been a very cool year in South Africa and harvest in about 3 weeks behind schedule … this has proven to be a boon for Sauvignon Blanc, which according to Gary Baumgarten, general manger, is tasting beautifully in tank.
2) Graham Beck is a rather large company and has winemakers in charge of specific grapes or brands, so that things don’t get lost and quality isn’t sacrificed, like one who specializes in Sauvignon Blanc and another for their sparkling wine program.
3) For every hectare cultivated, three are under conservation … Graham Beck has a game reserve which is currently 3885 hectares, while surrounding property owners have committed their land to this preservation attitude, and this will soon amount to 6000 hectares around the Roseburg Mountain – they are the only winery in the world that can boast this kind of commitment to the land and the animals upon it. They are proud to be acknowledged as a winery that is ISO-14001 sustainability certified.
4) The Gamekeeper’s Reserve wine was designed for the North American market and 10 cents from every bottle sold goes directly to the game reserve. Disney was the first to acquire this wine for it’s theme parks and it was exclusive to them for the first two years of its release.
5) Graham Beck cultivates 300 hectares (under vine), they are 90% self sufficient, the other 10% they buy from single vineyards in specific regions with specific terroir, and these grapes go into their ultra premium, single vineyard wines.
6) Graham Beck will be celebrating its 25th Anniversary this year.
About the Wines Tasted …
2005 Brut Rosé and NV Brut
These two wines are perfect just the way they are. Someone mentioned the rosé was too light (onion skin coloured) and hard to distinguish as a “rosé” – screw that noise, good wine is good wine no matter what the colour; I’d prefer to drink something that tastes good rather than something that’s the appropriate colour. Broken down, this sparkling Rosé is fruity and easy drinking, made from 80% Pinot and 20% Chardonnay – grapes are harvested and pressed together … a touch sweeter than the Brut this wine was set for launch through Vintages on March 15 ($21.95 - #4085). The Brut is a 50/50 blend of Pinot and Chard, with citrus and yeasty flavours that are crisp with bite and lemon freshness (due February 2009 - $18.95 - #62119).
2007 Sauvignon Blanc (no price or availability given)
This is Graham Beck’s basement Savvy B., but you could have fooled me. Typical and delightful with lots of grapefruit, gooseberry and grassy notes on the nose; with great acidity, crisp refreshing flavours of citrus, full mouthfeel and a lasting grapefruit finish … this was pretty awesome for their first rung Blanc. We were teased by a description of the “Pheasant Run” Sauvignon Blanc – their top tier, limited availability (900 cases), single vineyard offering from 15 year old vines … if you like S.B. get some of either, if you can.
2005 Railroad Red ($12.20 - #665273)
A blend of 60% Shiraz and 40% Cabernet Sauvignon … this usual Vintages product has been recently added to the general list: smoky, red fruit and vanilla greet the nose, while oaky tannins, red and black fruit, cinnamon and spice play on the palate.
2005 “The Andrew” ($25.50 - #52753)
A Bordeaux blend that has all the ingredients, including the Petit Verdot and Malbec … named after Graham Beck’s second grandchild (the first, named William, also has his own wine – no indication whether the boys like their respective beverages). 15 months in French oak has resulted in a smoky, black fruit, lead pencil and earthy nose, with a matching taste.
2003 Rhona Muscadel ($21.80 - #607812 – 500ml)
This wine, named for Beck’s wife, from the September 29, 2007 Vintages release, proved to be the hit of the tasting. Made from Muscat de Frontignan grapes, this limited wine is made in 1200 case lots every year (roughly 14,000 litres), is fortified to 16% and ranks between a 9 or 10 on the sugar code. A nose that’s full of grapey, pear and orange blossom notes that follow through in the mouth with a little bite, great acidity and fruity as all get out …a life span that’ll see if lasting 10 year plus.
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