TOTAL TURNAROUND Morandin 2020 Chardonnay (Ontario Wine)

This County winery's Chardonnay has taken a huge leap forward, 

find out why this Morandin Wine 2020 Chardonnay is the bomb 

 

 

Their 2019 was “not my Chardonnay", so when asked to taste the 2020 I was a little hesitant; but not for long. Now with winemaker Jonas Newman (of Hinterland fame) at the helm the Chardonnay has taken a drastic turn for the better. This is a really pretty Chardonnay with good spice notes on the finish and a rich mouthfeel on the mid-palate. Vanilla, apple, caramel and so much more; plus there are other fruits in here that take the form of those yellowish in nature. The oak, of which 33% is new, barely registers, as the leftover 67% goes into neutral oak and that seems to have won the day. This comes out late summer 2022, so be ready to pick some up.

 

Lighthall 2020 Cabernet Franc (Ontario Wine)

It's Cabernet Franc from Prince Edward County, 

and it is really good Cabernet Franc from the County

Lighthall Vineyards 2020 Cabernet Franc

 

... WRITTEN REVIEW ...

This Cabernet Franc was made in a similar fashion to Lighthall’s 2020 Merlot: 12 months in 75% new oak, but it took very differently to its temporary wooden home. The fruit proves to be dark fruit in nature and also has tobacco and smoke with some bittersweet chocolate on the finish. There's also some pretty hearty tannins, but the fruit is still very much present, some sips later and it feels like it’s just taking a nap in the background. Give this one three to five years to settle down, then pop the cork and enjoy.  (****+)

Rosehall Run 2019 JCR Vineyard Chardonnay

Oops, he's done it again, yet another wonderful bottle of 

Rosehall Run 2019 JCR Vineyard Chardonnay

 

>>> THE WRITTEN REVIEW <<<

Here’s a surprise. I just got a chance to taste this wine again – the first time was just after its bottling, and not some months later I was implored to try it again (by a Chardonnay loving friend who will remain nameless) … Dan Sullivan continues his winning streak with Chardonnay from his own vineyard. This 2019 has a beautiful mix of minerality and acidity to go along with the white fruit (apple and pear) plus notes of peach and pineapple. There's a little vanilla on the back end and creamy-esque mouthfeel that comes across rich and delicious. This is another JCR Chardonnay I could sit and sip on all day.  

Rating: ****+

Lighthall Vineyards 2020 Merlot (Ontario Wine)

Ontario Merlot may not be your cup of ... 

well, I think you'll change your mind after your second sip of this : 

Lighthall Vineyards 2020 Merlot

 

>>> WRITTEN REVIEW <<<

Probably would not expect a Merlot that sat in 75% new oak to be this fruit-driven, especially from Prince Edward County- but Holy Moses, would you be wrong to underestimate this one. Fruit hit 24.9 bricks in the South Bay Vineyard, now owned by Lighthall, and achieved an intense ripeness, then aged in cognac-style barrels with a high toast. The result is a rich and black-fruited wine with loads of cassis and blackberry. There's a slight smoky note that adds another layer. Never have I had a Merlot like this from Prince Edward County, proving once again that 2020 was a very special year. (**** ½)

 

Closson Chase 2019 Chardonnay, Churchside Vineyard (Ontario Wine)

Been a bit since we've seen a wine from Closson, 

so let's check in on a Chardonnay and why I'm liking this one : 

Closson Chase 2019 Chardonnay, Churchside Vineyard 

 

>>> WRITTEN REVIEW <<<

There's a slight smokiness here that plays well with the white peach and green apple; there's a subtle, spicy apricot note on the finish that helps to it elevate this Chardonnay out of the realm of merely typical into one of delicious. (****)

Morandin Wines 2020 County Pinot Noir (Ontario Wine)

Am I too late to tell you about this wine? Maybe. 

But I think it never to late to look forward to the next vintage 

 

Morandin Wines 2020 County Pinot Noir

Rosehall Run 2019 UV - Nedelko Vineyard (Ontario Wine)

Grapes come from Niagara, but Dan Sullivan makes this wine all his own

 

Rosehall Run 2019 UV - Nedelko Vineyard

 

... THE WRITTEN REVIEW ...

This Niagara-based Meritage blend comes from Niagara's Nedelko vineyard - and for 2019 it delivers so much more then I would have expected it to Cherry and sour cherry meet strawberry, but without being over the top, then there's mocha and pencil shavings with a juicy drink-ability that carries it right down the middle. It's quite a lovely bottle, proving Dan Sullivan can work with both Prince Edward County and Niagara fruit - but I think we've known that from his past endeavours.  ( **** )

Closson Chase 2019 Pinot Noir Stirling Barrique (Ontario Wine)

I spoke about this wine in its first release, now here we are again, and this one might be even better: 

 

Closson Chase 2019 Pinot Noir Stirling Barrique

 

 --- THE WRITTEN REVIEW ---

This is the second iteration of this less than 100-mile wine ... Everything is not just Canadian (grapes, barrels, winemaker) but they are all within a short sip of the winery. This year the juice is 50% pressed and 50% free run and 100% from the Churchside vineyard. It spends 18 months in these barrels from Sterling Ontario - 3rd and 4th fill (two each) - so the fruit is what really shines here: violets, black cherry, smoke, sour cherry, cranberry with a nice tannin punch, while the acidity is on-point. And the finish goes on and on and on. This just might be even be better than the first time.  (****+)

 

Hubbs Creek 2017 Pinot Noir Reserva (Ontario Wine Review #412)

This is one of those limited edition wines that only gets made in "great vintages" : 

 

Hubbs Creek 2017 Pinot Noir Reserva 

($39.95 each - available at the winery and online)

 

Huff Estates 2014 Pinot Noir Reserve (Ontario Wine Review #230)

Hinterland 2009 Les Etoiles (Ontario Wine Review #205)

Ontario Wine Review Video #145: Casa Dea 2010 Reserve Chardonnay

Report from ... 6 Barrels for 6 Chefs at Huff Estates, 8th Edition - July 10, 2015

I'll be honest with you, 6 for 6 is one of my favourite events of the year, and as you read on you'll see why ... I've attended seven of eight that have been held -  best part about missing that one was it rained cats and dogs that one time. Over the years (other than that one time) weather has ranged from gorgeous to excellent each year - there have been sweltering hot evenings and windy evenings, mosquito filled evenings and one's that went longer than expected, but thankfully it has always been clear of any foul weather.  This 8th edition was absolutely gorgeous: cool breeze, comfortable temps, it was I think the best weather ever for a 6 for 6 evening ... but enough about the weather - it's time to talk about 6 for 6 itself.

6 Barrels for 6 Chefs is Huff's annual charity event where they invite outstanding chef talent (6 in total) to cook "in their vineyard" and pair their dish with an unfinished wine (from barrel), hence 6 Barrels for 6 Chefs ... this year, for the first time, they really shook it up by inviting 6 wineries to participate - in the past it has been three wineries doing the heavy lifting: Huff Estates, Closson Chase and Norman Hardie - but this year they added Rosehall Run, Casa Dea and Lighthall to the mix ... still with a separation of 3 Chardonnays and 3 Pinot Noirs, it gave the evening an even great air of camaraderie and friendly competition about who was making better wine.

Notably absent this year was Chef Bryan Steele, who, according to legend, helped inspire the event, along with Huff's winemaker Frederic Picard, over a few glasses of - the whole sordid tale can be found here.  The Chefs in attendance this year were: Matt DeMille (Drake Devonshire), Pat Garland (Absinthe Cafe), Scott Kaplan (East & Main), Clark Day (Aquaterra & Bayview Farm in Collins Bay), Sebastian Schwab Cuisine, Carl Heinrich (Richmond Station), and Elliot Reynolds (Hubb at Angeline's).

It's now time to look at the notables this year from food to wine and of course the pairings - all the food was outstanding, but some are always better than others, but there is always thought put into how it matched with the accompanying, yet ever changing wine (it's in barrel after all) - I am told that some chefs make adjustments in the vineyard while others stick with their originally conceived dish.  The wines speak for themselves and are bell-weathers for the vintage they are from (all from the currently barreled vintage - 2014) so are quite young - some seem really drink now while others still need time to round out, but they are all interesting so see at this moment in time.

This all said: Six Barrels for Six Chefs still remains one of the premier events in all of wine country Ontario and that takes into account all regions - it is the jewel in the crown of Prince Edward County events and to this day remains a unique experience that has yet to be duplicated elsewhere.

Chef Carl Heinrich shows off
his Pate en Croute

Now let's look at the evening in pictures ... 

Let's look at the food, the wine and the pairings and how they rank throughout the evening ...

Chef Par Garland works at his station

His finished product:
Lake Pickerel "Lox", Vegetable Macedoine Salad,
Poached Egg, Sour Cream and Onion Chip, Lemon Verbena

Paired with Closson Chase 2014 Chardonnay
Seguin Moreau 225L barrel medium toast - 1st fill
--- A lovely pairing - #2 on the list of best food of the night ---

Chef Carl Heinrich puts the finishing touches on his dish

While Dan Sullivan, Rosehall Run, provides the wine

The Dish:
Rabbit and Pork Terrine en Croute with Pistachio

Paired with Rosehall Run 2014 Pinot Noir
Billon barrel 225L Vosges forest medium toast - 1st fill
--- most drinkable now Pinot of the night, both the wine and
food were delicious, but sadly neither enhanced the other ---

Sebastian Schwab works on his dish

The finished dish:
Ice Wine White Tea Smoked Mariposa Farm Magret of Duck,
Sour Cherry Sauce, Heirloom Beets

While the beets were fresh the duck was tough and chewy ...
easily our least favourite dish of the night (sorry Sebastian)
not even the Casa Dea 2014 Pinot Noir Mercurey barrel 225L
SR toast - 5th fill ... could elevate it.

Chef Clark Day presents his dish

Frying Crispy Spatzle in a pan full of butter ...
and you know all GOOD recipes start off that way

His Dish:
Crispy Spatzle with Pinot-Braized Pulled Water Buffalo
in Reduced Drippings with Brie de Milford

Paired with Lighthall 2014 Pinot Noir
Dargaux & Jaegle barrel 225L medium toast - 3rd fill

A match made it heaven we had to look at it twice ...
--- this was the #1 food and wine pairing of the night
and the #1 food - Congrats Chef Clark ---

The scallops of East & Main (Chef Scott Kaplan)
marinate before being turned into their dish

Scallops and Satsuma Escabeche with
Long Pepper and Basil Served on Lavash

Paired with Norman Hardie 2014 Chardonnay
Mercurey barrel 500L ST toast - 3rd fill
--- my #1 pick for Chardonnay of the night ---

The dish on its own had little pizzazz but the pairing worked -
the wine elevated the food making it delicious
(nice job Scott & Norman)

Matt DeMille's Rabbit Foie Gras Terrine
with Foraged County Greens

Paired with Huff Estates 2014 Chardonnay
Dargaux & Jaegle barrel 225L medium-heavy toast COF - 3rd fill

--- It was an okay dish, not top, not bottom -
somewhere in the middle ... someone's got to be ---

Top Two Dishes of the Night ...

Chef Clark Day (#1 - on left) - Bayview Farm in Collins Bay
Chef Pat Garland (#2 - on right) - Absinthe Cafe

Other Pictures of the Night's Event ...

A look at the perfect weather of the evening
overlooking Huff's vineyard

The evening from the other side of the tent - where the work is done

The gathering of the chefs and winemakers for the annual post event picture

It's never easy to get as people are always looking everywhere -
but sooner or later you take what you can get:
There they are folks, the Chefs and Winemakers of 6 for 6, 2015

And another Six for Six comes to a close with dessert by
Chef Elliot Reynolds: White Miso and Apricot Jelly Roll with
double smoked Bacon Soil, Coconut Caramel

See you Next Year

For more wine reviews and related articles go to www.MichaelPinkusWineReview.com, while there sign up for Michael's free bi-weekly newsletter.

Report from ... Six Barrels for Six Chefs 2014 - July 11, 2014

Can't believe we're in the 8th year of this must-attend event.  Since the very first back in 2007 the reputation of this event has grown and now it is something many look forward to each and every year (myself included).  I have missed only one "646" event (and it was the downpour year of 2009 - if there was one to miss ...).  This year you couldn't have asked for a more beautiful night, better weather or even a more exciting group of chefs to participate (but if anyone can top this I bet the folks at Huff could, and will).  Each and every year Six 4 Six continues to surpass expectations and deliver on the promise of good food, amazing 'unfinished' wines and the friendship and camaraderie that goes along with it (sit and/or stand in line beside anyone and you're instant friends).  This year I noticed the focus was more about food pairing than just best wine and best food ...

A Sneak Peak Before the Doors Open ...

Entering the tent for the 8th Annual 6 for 6 event ...
Can't wait to see what lies beyond

Set up continues to take place with
the chefs firing up their cooking requirements

All amongst the picturesque back-drop of the Huff Estates vineyard

Here chef Hiro Yoshida from Hiro Sushi prepares -
he has a somewhat more raw approach to his offering

Although his preparations are well underway

Hiro gave me a sneak peak at his offering:
Chirashi sushi rice on endive with anchovy gravlax salmon and smoked lobster

Chef Ryan Crawford, Gastro-Homestead, surveys his surrounding
while deciding what to do next

He's set himself up with a pretty scary looking table ...

 Let the Games Begin ...

But before any of that happens, Huff treats everyone to a glass of their
amazing 2013 Rose ... not since 2006 has Frederic Picard made one this good

The glasses are laid out by the entrance with care

Fill 'em up ... all of 'em

Starting off with chef Sebastien:
Pickerel with prickly ask berries on grape leaf

Then its the Hiro Sushi station where they finished serving food before anyone
(followed closely by Sebastien)

Ryan Crawford's unique serving style (on wooden planks)
showcased his cured meats and local produce

Home-grown Prosciutto with creme fraiche black walnut syrup
and Norm Hardie's foraged greens

Chef Marc Lepine, of Atelier, offered up a Duck rilette with sweet peas, carrots,
cauliflower, apricots, cherries, sour dough croutons, yellow beet puree and yuzu mist

This chef Chris McDonald toasted housemade cornbread foie gras, bbq gaspe smoked eel
glazed with birch syrup and black trumpet mushroom - a perfect pairing with the Closson
Chase Pinot Noir (almost a no-brainer pairing: mushroom and Pinot)

The boys from Mercer Hall (Sean Collins & Tim Larson) put forth:
Beef tongue pastrami, bacon pickled egg, soiled reputation snap peas,
pig's blood sour dough crouton, local cucumber and dill aioli -
a delightful pairing with another Closson Chase Pinot Noir

It'd be hard to forget about star chef, Top Chef Canada winner and
owner of Richmond Station in Toronto, Carl Heinrich

Who put on a pasta-rific show for the ...

line-up that was forming at his station.

His rather simple:  Mushroom Capellini with red wine and beef jus
and Monteforte Toscano cheese was a crowd pleaser

Another stellar dessert was plated up by chef Bryan Steele

Starting with artisanal bread and cheese

And then out of the portable freezer came these
Seabuckthorn, creme fraiche and strawberry popsicles ...
Holy Yum!!!

Selected Pics from the Event ...

Chef Sebastien and his 'cool dude' helper

Prep at Hiro Sushi's booth

Huff winemaker Frederic Picard (far right) and Chef Sebastien (left)
admire the back of Norm Hardie's shirt (blue checks of right)

The pickling lab at the Mercer Hall booth

Chef Steele and his bushy bearded assistant chats up a guest

Norman Hardie taste tests Carl's sauce

Carl Heinrich multitasks manning the fire while flipping the pan of pasta

The Good Things in Life:
bread, wine and cheese - what else is there?

The 'annual group grope' picture is cause for the cameras to come out

And here are the 2014, 8th Annual, 6 Barrel for 6 Chefs participants ...
another one in the books; another great night of food, wine and friendship
comes to an end.  See you next year.

For more wine reviews and related articles go to www.michaelpinkuswinereview.com, while there sign up for Michael's free bi-weekly newsletter.