Report from … Austria Uncorked - April 16, 2012

In the history of Toronto "trade tastings" I don't think I've ever known anybody's "credentials to be checked at the door" ... it seems that anybody can get in regardless of you association to the wine industry, if at all any.  Thus was the case at the Austrian tasting held Monday April 16 - in fact I bumped into a few well known sommeliers as I was leaving, after my hour-and-a-half run (literally) through a room at the brand new Trump Hotel, the room was getting hotter and more packed by the minute, it looked more like a push-and-shove-athon more than a wine tasting.  These originally excited sommelier (Austria is always a hot wine topic) took one look in the door and said, "not worth it".  Sure the room contained writers and restaurateurs but there were also members of the public that had no business being there, including a woman whom I overheard saying: "I only like red wine, what's with all this white?"  To her I wanted to ask, what the heck are you doing at an Austrian tasting.  I'm not saying that Austria doesn't make red, in fact they are doing a much better job then I have seen and tasted in the past (thank you global warming), but they are still a country known for crisp whites like Gruner Veltliner (their signature grape) and Riesling - which were the two predominant grapes on the tables.  It was a quick tasting around the 18 tables (it was 24 degrees out and felt doubly hot in the room) ... but here's my take on the wines I tried, notes where warranted. 

NB … Because of the cramp nature of the room I missed certain tables that were not set up in time, which brings me to my last complaint (for now) if the show is called for 2pm, be at your table at 2, if you’re not there are members of the media (me included) that’ll walk right by and not look back. 

Winzer Krems …

2011 Kremser Goldberg – Gruner Veltliner (****)

2009 Edition Chremisa – Blauer Zweigelt (****+) – sweet and sour cherry notes

Brundlmayer …

2010 Klassik Heiligenstein – Riesling (*** ½+)

2006 Steinmassel – Riesling (****)

2008 Reserve Lamm – Gruner Veltiner (****) – oaked for 6-7 months, creamy with nice acidity; real elegance here

Laurenz V …

2011 “Friendly” – Gruner Veltliner (*** ½+) – well named as it really is … friendly

2011 “Forbidden” – Gruner Veltliner (*** ½+) – new, off-dry and very fruity

2010 Reserve “Charming” – Gruner Veltliner (****) – grapefruit pith with a nicely spiced finish

Salomon Undhof …

2001 Klassik Undhof Kogl – Riesling (****) – floral, mineral, peach pit, lengthy finish

2006 Auslese – Riesling (****+) – succulent and sweet, really decadent

Heinrich …

2009 Leithaberg – Blaufrankisch (****+) – single vineyard with 28 months in oak, lots of lovely cherry and mineral; very aromatic and quite spicy

Loimer …

2011 “Lois” – Gruner Veltliner (*** ½) – most sold Austrian wine in the US

2011 Kamptal - Riesling (****)

Nigl …

2011 Gartling – Gruner Veltliner (*** ½+) – grapefruit and lemonade cocktail

2011 Senftenberger Piri – Gruner Veltliner (*** ½+)

2011 Domleiten – Rheinriesling (**** ½) – amazing minerality here

Zantho …

2010 Klassik – St. Laurent (*** ½+) – sweet cherry with a hint of spice

2009 Reserve –Zweigelt (****+) – 14 months, 60% new French oak; nice peppered cherry, slightly spiced with well balanced tannins

Huber …

2011 Klassik “Terrassen” – Gruner Veltliner (*** ½+)

2011 Klassik “Terrassen” – Riesling (*** ½+)

2010 Reserve Berg – Riesling (****)

2011 Reserve Alte Setzen – Gruner Veltliner (****)

Domane Wachau …

2011 Federspiel “Terrassen” – Gruner Veltliner (*** ½+)

Zahel …

2011 Goldberg – Gruner Veltliner (*** ½+)

2010 Leiten – St. Laurent (****) – aged in neutral 10 year old barrels; lovely black cherry, raspberry with nice tannin backing

2010 Kaasgraben – Gruner Veltliner (****+) – year on lees, all stainless, quite creamy

Beck …

2009 “Alte Lagen” – Blaufrankisch (****) – 1 year in “really old barrels”; lovely red fruit

2008 Altenberg – Blaufrankisch (****+) – aged 2 years in “really old barrels”, smooth cherry with great acidity

Pfaffl …

2010 “Am Berg” – Riesling (*** ½+) – peach and delicious apple

2011 Niederosterreich – Blauer Zweigelt (*** ½+) – candied cherry

Markowitch …

2010 Klassik “Rubin Camuntum” – Zweigelt (*** ½+) – earthy, sour cherry and other dark berries

Tement …

2010 Grassnitzberg – Sauvignon Blanc (*** ½+) – clean and crisp with nice leesy notes

2009 Zieregg – Sauvignon Blanc (*** ½+) – fume style

Empty Tables at 2:00pm included: Angerer Kurt, Rabl, Arachon T FX T, Johanneshof Reinisch, Jurtschitsch and Steininger – sorry folks I passed right by ya.

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