Thursday, September 27, 2012

Report from ... Back for More Banfi – September 19, 2012

Today's wine list ...
Just 5 months ago I sat at a table in Bravi Ristorante and tasted through a number of Banfi wines with general manager Enrico Viglierchio and export manager Javier Rodriguez during a delicious lunch … I can tell you without a doubt that these wines are primarily food wines as today’s stand-alone tasting did not impress me as much – though the wines remain as impressive as ever, the food really bought out what they could do to enhance a meal.  On their own some wines showed better than others did last time.

We started with the Aurora Rose (bubbles) – still a great starter that needs no introduction, if you read my previous report.

****+
One of the wines that stood up better today than five months ago was the 2008 La Lus Albarossa … back then I gave it four stars, today I raised it to four-plus.  This Nebbiolo/Barbera crossing is a wonderfully fruity wine that’s juicy and incredible tasty.  Red and black berries with nice spice and a red licorice finish … and the presentation (bottle-wise) is as elegant as the wine in bottle.  The good news is that come November 10, 2012 you (and I) will be able to put our hands on a few bottles as 300 cases will be making their way into the LCBO Vintages program.  At $23.95 this is a must purchase wine – at least three bottles worth … so make sure your local store is going to bring some in (#291575) - ****+.

Another wine that rocked my taste buds today was the Centine Rosso 2010 Toscana – a blend of Sangiovese (60%), Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot (20% each) – this beauty just came to Vintages (September 1) and at $15.95 is one of the best Italian bargains: licorice, cassis, brambly-raspberry and dark berries all wrapped up in a very rustic Italian style wine yet also with a modern flair (****).
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The Banfi Brunello di Montalcino: 2006 and 2007 were also tasted today – both received the same score they did from five months ago (3.5+) and (4+) respectively … nice to see I’m consistent.

The Poggio Alle Mura 2007 seems to have dropped almost a full point to 3.5+ … proving that this wine needs food to truly shine – and better glassware (which was the case at Bravi but not at today’s tasting, the vessel left something to be desired).

The Poggio All’Oro faired better, picking up a half point to settle in at 4-stars, this wine proved to be quite tasty – the leanest of the previous bottle was gone and now showed dried and fresh cherries, blackberry, cassis and a nice dry finish that wasn’t too tannic – chalk this one up to bottle variation.

Two other wines did not make the trip last tasting, so I was excited to try them today – both interesting IGT blends: the 2009 Excelsus (last time around was the stellar ’07) was full of fresh fruit – both red ad black – and lovely chocolate notes, it also had a juicy palate with a lovely silkiness across the tongue – all before the tannins kicked in on the finish (****+)
****+

The final wine was the Cum Laude 2009, a blend that incorporates 4 varieties: Sangiovese (25%), Cabernet Sauvignon (30%), Merlot (30%) and 15% Syrah – this one was rich and flavourful with plum, cherry and blackberry on the nose; which followed through on the palate with more dark fruit and hints of cocoa added for good measure … and, of course, you can’t avoid the delicious finish (****+).

I still say that La Lus is a bargain for an as-yet unheralded grape (Albarossa) and the Cantine is a steal at $15.95 … keep your eyes peeled for the one (Nov. 10) and rush out now to get your hands on the other.

The three star selection -


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