As lackluster as Day 2 was, Day 3 was the exact opposite - the majority of the wines were extraordinary, the producers engaging, the food inventive and rustic (but very good) and the camaraderie of the group cam to a head over dinner in a manor house kitchen - and dinner ended with a bit of a surprise ... Let's take a look:
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| Of course we started on the bus, but you've seen that one before ... so here's our first stop: Solar do Alvarinho, where we'll get our first experience with the Alvarinho grape. |
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| The tasting room is all set up for us. |
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| This is what a bunch of tired wine writers look like in the morning. |
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| We tasted these five wines - all from the 2011 vintage and award winners the lot. |
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| Favourites included this Touquinheiras 2011 Nostalgia, made from "very old vines", wild yeast fermented, and rested on lees till bottling. Nose of grapefruit pith and a little SO2, which blew off. Creamy mouth-feel and depth of character the palate - this one needs a little time to even out, then it's gonna be really tasty (****) |
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| And this Regueiro 2011 Secreto Alvarinho: tropical nose with honey, pineapple, peach and good minerality ... palate is juicy yet stony with creamed pineapple and just the right amount of mineraity (*** 1/2+) ... "reserve" on these wines is a sign of quality as deemed by the producer - though and independent tasting panel has to decide whether they keep that moniker. |
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| Once again we find Irv on the floor. |
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| Odd bathroom find ... this tiny piece of soap must be from the Ming Dynasty (why else would you keep it?) |
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| Our arrival at Solheiro (in Malgaco) is greeted with some picturesque views - like this one. |
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| And this one. |
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| The table is set for lunch. |
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| The wines are ready to pour. |
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| But first ... it's up the stairs for a presentation and tasting. |
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| One last look back (from on high) at our lunch table set with in-house made ham and sausage. |
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| Local Malgaco natural mineral water with natural carbonation - we ran out of time to go and see the spring from whence this water came ... dang |
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| Luis Cerdeira runs us through fats about the Moncao & Malgaco region, like the regulation about what can be called Vinho Verde and not ... For example: Alvarinho Vinho Verde can only come from this region. |
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| The Solheiro estate has 7 hectares of vines and they buy fruit from 30 growers who share their philosophy about quality wine making |
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| Quite the vertical of old Alvarinho Vinho Verde: 1997, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009, 2010 - the question on everyone's mind: can this stuff age? |
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| The stand out trio of the tasting (no loner available). It's interesting to note that each came from a different kind of vintage: 2005 (hot), 2007 (classic), 2008 (cold) - yet each showed an amazing amount of finest. |
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| Lunch is served ... mushroom and spinach stuffed roll |
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| Three-year cured and made in-house pork meat |
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| Here Luis shows us how to eat the in-house made sausage |
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| And here he describes the contents of the spinach mushroom roll. |
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| This might not look very appetizing but the Monk Fish and Rice dis was delicious |
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| Oak aged Alvarinho -25% in 1-2 year-old barrels (the rest in older) one year total in barrel and on lees. The '08 was well-round - the '10 still showed too much of the barrel influence ... but it will improve. |
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| Welcome ... to Jurassic Park (the view from the Solheiro balcony) |
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| Rod Philips (of the Ottawa Citizen) takes a breather |
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| In the distance are the mountains of Spain |
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| Gratuitous dog shot, as we are greeted by this guy as we arrive at Reguengo de Melgaco - our next stop and home to the gold medal winning best of Vinho Verde Alvarinho |
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| Here bottles are opened from 2006, 2009, 2010 and 2011 |
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| Wines are made in a very oxidative style, the older vintages really showed that characteristic - the 2011 was the best of this lot, but to keep it tasting fresh drink within 2 years. |
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| Dog at Reguengo continues to keep a watchful eye on us. |
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| Joel Riddell from San Francisco (ex-pat Canadian) shows off the oranges he picked in the Reguengo orchard |
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| You've heard about it, nowhere it is ... ladies and gentlemen this is the low hanging fruit. |
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| Arrival at Solar do Louredo |
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| The path leading into one of the Louredo properties |
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| A 400 year old Bical (red variety) grape vine |
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| Perspective shot so you get an idea of the size of this plant |
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| The one behind it is about a 1/4 its diameter |
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| Winemaker and consultant Antonio Sousa |
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| Courtyard of the winery and estate |
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| Knights of the Square Table unite to try the wines (4 in total - 3 whites, 1 red) |
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| And the winner is: 2011 Solar do Louredo, a blend of Loureiro/Trajadura,/ Alvarinho - floral, perfume, grassy, mineral and peach skin on the nose; mineral goes across the tongue along with grapefruit skin and pith and peach pit ... fruity and fun (*** 1/2+) |
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| The owner of Louredo has his own bird zoo on the property of his house ... here you'll find some very exotic birds (see below for examples) |
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| The house whee we are having dinner ... with the owner of Solar do Louredo |
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| Mammoth, yet rustic / modern kitchen |
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| Dinner includes octopus |
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| Veal, cod and potatoes |
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| And ended with the first bottle of non-Portuguese wine I've ever had in Portugal: Vranken Diamand Champagne (real French Champagne) |
Thus endeth Day 3 on a high note ... tomorrow we will be visiting CVRVV Comissao de Viticultura da Regiao dos Vinhos Verdes and then we'll have a little tie before we are formally summoned to dinner with a minister / aide ... many of us did not bring a jacket because we were advised not to ... hope this impromptu dinner is not too formal an affair - good night and we'll see you all back here tomorrow.
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